[SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine

[Richard Fink Sr]

I see what you are saying.
R Fink





At 08:10 PM 5/22/2010 -0400, you wrote:

>Hi Richard,
>
>The problem is, these bearing shells are brass with what I presume 
>to be a heavy overlay of babbitt on them. The babbitt is pretty much 
>gone on one of the shells and the crank pin has been running on the brass.
>
>I am needing to get this babbitt put back on again.
>
>You can see them in the pictures here:
>
>
>
>http://picasaweb.google.com/108843557668119866536/FAIRBANKSMORSERRENGINES?authkey=Gv1sRgCOOj557l4vj6UA&feat=directlink
>
>
>
>If you scroll down a bit in the photos you will see the badly worn 
>bearing shell that has most of the babbitt gone, I'm holding it in my hand.
>
>Ralph
>
>
>
>
>
> > Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 18:51:51 -0400
> > To: sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > From: nancydick at pennswoods.net
> > Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine
> >
> > I would try to find a good machinist and get a new one turned from
> > the right brass. just my 02$
> > R Fink
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > At 04:36 PM 5/22/2010 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> > >Oh ok, now I understand. I had no idea this could be done on this
> > >type of rod, thanks for clearing it up for me. I was thinking my
> > >only option would be to find a new set of the bearings somewhere.
> > >
> > >I take that the person who does this work would not need the crank
> > >too just the crank pin size maybe?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Sorry for all the questions this is new territory for me but I'm learning.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Can you suggest anyone to do this and a maybe a ball park guess on
> > >about how much it would cost to do?
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >Thank you Elden for all the good information, I appreciate it very much.
> > >
> > >Ralph
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > > From: edurand at mchsi.com
> > > > To: sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > > > Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 15:50:33 -0500
> > > > Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine
> > > >
> > > > Ralph:
> > > >
> > > > When rebabbitting the thick shell "Insert" bearings, they are
> > > mounted in the rod with the appropriate shim pack and then poured.
> > > >
> > > > Afterward, reaming gets them to size.
> > > >
> > > > Use some heat to try to loosen the stuck ring. Most times, if you
> > > get the piston smoking hot (no hotter), the rings will pop out on
> > > their own. If not, while still too hot to touch, dip the whole
> > > works in your favorite penetrant or solvent and let it cool
> > > overnight. Gentle prying should make it give up.
> > > >
> > > > If you break it - don't worry. There are folks out there (Otto
> > > Gas Engine Company) who can supply single rings or sets in a very
> > > large variety of sizes.
> > > >
> > > > Take care - Elden
> > > > http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand
> > > >
> > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > From: sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > > > > [mailto:sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com]On
> > > > > Behalf Of Ralph Holt
> > > > > Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 02:29 PM
> > > > > To: sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > > > > Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Hello Elden,
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, I plan on doing as you said after cleaning
> > > > > the piston and rings up, just light honing of the
> > > > > cylinder and put it back together.
> > > > >
> > > > > The second ring is stuck tight, hopefully I can
> > > > > get it freed up without breaking it.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > The rebabitting of the rod is confusing to me on
> > > > > this engine because it has what is very much like
> > > > > automotive inserts of brass that will come out of
> > > > > the rod and they are held in place to keep them
> > > > > from spinning via pins.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > The manual calls them a rod bushing (crank end)
> > > > > and says number per car (1.) Part number:
> > > > > MR419659 It also has shims that can be added or
> > > > > removed to adjust the fit on the crank.
> > > > >
> > > > > The rod cap has a lot of lubrication holes in it
> > > > > and also so does the insert (bushing.)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Yes, the exhaust just dumps out of the baffle
> > > > > thing at the port on the bottom of the engine on
> > > > > this one. The manual shows an optional flex pipe
> > > > > that can be put on instead then the exhaust can
> > > > > be routed out the side of the car, no muffler. I
> > > > > guess that option is a little better than the way
> > > > > it is now.
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > At least I think I should be able to make some
> > > > > new friends with the Maytag folks. :)
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > Thank you for your input.
> > > > >
> > > > > Ralph
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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