[SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine

Richard Fink Sr nancydick at pennswoods.net
Sat May 22 15:51:51 PDT 2010


I would try to find a good machinist and get a new one turned from 
the right brass. just my 02$
R Fink




At 04:36 PM 5/22/2010 -0400, you wrote:

>Oh ok, now I understand. I had no idea this could be done on this 
>type of rod, thanks for clearing it up for me. I was thinking my 
>only option would be to find a new set of the bearings somewhere.
>
>I take that the person who does this work would not need the crank 
>too just the crank pin size maybe?
>
>
>
>Sorry for all the questions this is new territory for me but I'm learning.
>
>
>
>Can you suggest anyone to do this and a maybe a ball park guess on 
>about how much it would cost to do?
>
>
>
>Thank you Elden for all the good information, I appreciate it very much.
>
>Ralph
>
>
>
>
>
> > From: edurand at mchsi.com
> > To: sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 15:50:33 -0500
> > Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine
> >
> > Ralph:
> >
> > When rebabbitting the thick shell "Insert" bearings, they are 
> mounted in the rod with the appropriate shim pack and then poured.
> >
> > Afterward, reaming gets them to size.
> >
> > Use some heat to try to loosen the stuck ring. Most times, if you 
> get the piston smoking hot (no hotter), the rings will pop out on 
> their own. If not, while still too hot to touch, dip the whole 
> works in your favorite penetrant or solvent and let it cool 
> overnight. Gentle prying should make it give up.
> >
> > If you break it - don't worry. There are folks out there (Otto 
> Gas Engine Company) who can supply single rings or sets in a very 
> large variety of sizes.
> >
> > Take care - Elden
> > http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > > [mailto:sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com]On
> > > Behalf Of Ralph Holt
> > > Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 02:29 PM
> > > To: sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > > Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Hello Elden,
> > >
> > > Yes, I plan on doing as you said after cleaning
> > > the piston and rings up, just light honing of the
> > > cylinder and put it back together.
> > >
> > > The second ring is stuck tight, hopefully I can
> > > get it freed up without breaking it.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The rebabitting of the rod is confusing to me on
> > > this engine because it has what is very much like
> > > automotive inserts of brass that will come out of
> > > the rod and they are held in place to keep them
> > > from spinning via pins.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > The manual calls them a rod bushing (crank end)
> > > and says number per car (1.) Part number:
> > > MR419659 It also has shims that can be added or
> > > removed to adjust the fit on the crank.
> > >
> > > The rod cap has a lot of lubrication holes in it
> > > and also so does the insert (bushing.)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yes, the exhaust just dumps out of the baffle
> > > thing at the port on the bottom of the engine on
> > > this one. The manual shows an optional flex pipe
> > > that can be put on instead then the exhaust can
> > > be routed out the side of the car, no muffler. I
> > > guess that option is a little better than the way
> > > it is now.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > At least I think I should be able to make some
> > > new friends with the Maytag folks. :)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Thank you for your input.
> > >
> > > Ralph
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > SEL at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > http://www.stationary-engine.com/mailman/listinfo/sel
>
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