[SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine

Ralph Holt rehot at msn.com
Sat May 22 13:36:58 PDT 2010


Oh ok, now I understand. I had no idea this could be done on this type of rod, thanks for clearing it up for me. I was thinking my only option would be to find a new set of the bearings somewhere. 

I take that the person who does this work would not need the crank too just the crank pin size maybe?

 

Sorry for all the questions this is new territory for me but I'm learning.

 

Can you suggest anyone to do this and a maybe a ball park guess on about how much it would cost to do?

 

Thank you Elden for all the good information, I appreciate it very much.

Ralph

 


 
> From: edurand at mchsi.com
> To: sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 15:50:33 -0500
> Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine
> 
> Ralph:
> 
> When rebabbitting the thick shell "Insert" bearings, they are mounted in the rod with the appropriate shim pack and then poured.
> 
> Afterward, reaming gets them to size.
> 
> Use some heat to try to loosen the stuck ring. Most times, if you get the piston smoking hot (no hotter), the rings will pop out on their own. If not, while still too hot to touch, dip the whole works in your favorite penetrant or solvent and let it cool overnight. Gentle prying should make it give up.
> 
> If you break it - don't worry. There are folks out there (Otto Gas Engine Company) who can supply single rings or sets in a very large variety of sizes.
> 
> Take care - Elden
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > [mailto:sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com]On
> > Behalf Of Ralph Holt
> > Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2010 02:29 PM
> > To: sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse RR Motorcar Engine
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hello Elden, 
> > 
> > Yes, I plan on doing as you said after cleaning 
> > the piston and rings up, just light honing of the 
> > cylinder and put it back together. 
> > 
> > The second ring is stuck tight, hopefully I can 
> > get it freed up without breaking it.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > The rebabitting of the rod is confusing to me on 
> > this engine because it has what is very much like 
> > automotive inserts of brass that will come out of 
> > the rod and they are held in place to keep them 
> > from spinning via pins. 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > The manual calls them a rod bushing (crank end) 
> > and says number per car (1.) Part number: 
> > MR419659 It also has shims that can be added or 
> > removed to adjust the fit on the crank.
> > 
> > The rod cap has a lot of lubrication holes in it 
> > and also so does the insert (bushing.)
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Yes, the exhaust just dumps out of the baffle 
> > thing at the port on the bottom of the engine on 
> > this one. The manual shows an optional flex pipe 
> > that can be put on instead then the exhaust can 
> > be routed out the side of the car, no muffler. I 
> > guess that option is a little better than the way 
> > it is now.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > At least I think I should be able to make some 
> > new friends with the Maytag folks. :)
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Thank you for your input.
> > 
> > Ralph
> 
> 
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