[SEL] Question re tapered gib keys

Jerry Evans jerrye at databak.co.za
Tue Sep 15 12:16:57 PDT 2009


>Message: 17
>Date: Tue, 15 Sep 2009 07:57:06 +1000
>From: "Kerry" <ozengine at optusnet.com.au>
>Subject: Re: [SEL] Question re tapered gib keys
>
>G'Day Jerry
>Elden beat me to it, they made over 54,000 of them so the system if used
>correctly is not the problem, are you sure the key fits nicely into both
>keyways (crank and flywheel), there must be no side movement. I have just
>finished using JB weld on one side of a badly worn keyway side and it looks
>like the end result will work ok, once it is in and every thing is tight
>there should be no side movement.
>I to would use a little Loktite at least on the key.
>don't see why brass shim could not be used under the key, loktite it to the
>key.
>
>are you sure the shaft or hub is not worn and does not tighten up correctly
>without the key, if the diameters are not correct it will never tighten and
>by putting more pressure on the clamping bolt than designed to pull the hub
>tighter WILL crack the hub on the keyway side as you first had.
>
>Kerry

Hi Kerry,
         Thanks for your input,
         Most of your questions were answered in my reply to Elden and others.
         Yes, I understand that the system must have worked O.K. My 
original comment was probably "uncalled for".
         You are the first one to mention JB Weld - that is another avenue 
for me to explore. Fill up those gaps that allow the flywheel to "rock" (as 
mine is doing). Maybe this will even solve the problem of having to "file" 
a "stepped key" - or at least make it easier to do.
         I'm quite sure that the internal diameter of the hub does clamp 
down O.K. onto the crankshaft (the mandrel used when it was welded was a 
few thou smaller) but I do not have the tools (or experience) to measure it 
accurately - it may be oval but will explore that possibility soon (my 
brother does have an engineering workshop with the necessary equipment).
         Another possibility (Please correct me if I'm wrong) is that the 
bolt that is used to tighten the flywheel may be of the wrong pitch and is 
coming loose with running. The original bolt was badly "mauled" and we 
replaced it with a similar sized metric bolt but I'm not sure what the 
thread pitch of the new bolt is - could this cause a problem?).

         Thanks for your interest and help Kerry.
Jerry.
(From the land of the new "Tri-Nations" champions) Although that was 
difficult - having to play against the crowd as well as the referee was not 
easy :-))




More information about the sel mailing list