[SEL] Question re tapered gib keys

[Jerry Evans]

At 06:00 PM 15/09/2009, you wrote:
>Message: 16
>Date: Mon, 14 Sep 2009 17:27:39 -0500
>From: "Elden DuRand" <edurand at mchsi.com>
>Subject: Re: [SEL] Question re tapered gib keys
>Jerry:
>Let me throw my two cents worth into the fray.  Remember, though, that the 
>advice I give is worth about two cents less than you paid.
>What I would do would be to carefully fit a new key that is snug in both 
>the flywheel and the crankshaft.  You may have to machine it to a 
>different width for the crank than for the wheel but the idea is to get 
>rid of any clearance.
>Ghen, before the final assembly, I'd clean the heck out of the bore and 
>the shaft and apply a drop or two of Loktite (or a similar locking 
>compound).  Assemble, tighten the draw bolt then let it sit for a day or 
>two for the Loktite to set-up.
>
>That should hold things together and should (if you've selected the proper 
>grade of locking compound) still allow removal of the wheel if necessary.
>
>Take care - Elden
>http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand

Hi Elden,
         First let me say that, ALL advice given by you or any other member 
of this list is worth a helluva lot to me. That is why I ask the questions 
in the first place - I do not have the experience or knowledge that is 
available on this (and Oldengine) list.
         This thread has answered so many questions for me and taught me so 
much. (It's also on Jim's list).
         So, thank you for your answer and yes, it does make a lot of sense 
because of the fact that I can "rock" the flywheel on the shaft. (Only a 
little bit but enough to get a "click click" sound).
         All the replies I have got are stored in a file and tomorrow (or 
maybe later) I will sort through them and find the best answer to the problem.
         I was worried about having to make a "stepped key" as Tom and you 
mentioned because I do not have the equipment (or ability) for that and I'm 
useless with a file:-)
         LocTite has crept into the thread so many times (I've never used 
it) that I'm beginning to think about it but it will probably only work on 
well mated surfaces so the "stepped key" may come into it.
         Thanks for the advice.

Keep the revs up (or down)
Jerry Evans
Near Johannesburg in Sunny South Africa.
Etched Brass Engine Plates made to order:
<www.oldengine.org/members/evans/plates/index.htm>