[SEL] Kwik Poly Sealer

Richard Fink Sr nancydick at pennswoods.net
Fri Jul 27 19:54:34 PDT 2007


Thanks Dave Curt and all. I have worked on this tractor on and off 
last 3 years or so. I took the tank in to a local radiator shop that 
does relining and they said with the leaks could not be done. It is a 
1932 Cleatrac W last year with steering wheel.
R Fink




At 07:47 AM 7/27/2007 -0400, you wrote:
>Richard,
>Dave pointed out that QP won't stick to QP. I haven't tried it but he
>must have a good, tried and true reason for his statement. That said,
>why wouldn't you do the QP treatment all in one step? I had a weepy tank
>on my Ford 600 tractor tank. No rust anywhere to be found, but still
>weepy. I removed the tank, cleaned the outside real well in the parts
>washer, and re-welded a support bracket that had come loose. Then poured
>in a cup or 2 of lacquer thinner and sloshed this around, de-greasing
>the inside of the tank thoroughly. Then took an air hose and blew the
>inside until all the thinner was gone. I mixed less than a 1/2 cup of
>the QP and poured it in. It's like water and you slosh this around in a
>pattern to assure you wet the entire bottom half of the tank. You can go
>as high or low as you wish up the sides. You keep sloshing until the
>chemical reaction begins to occur and it gets more and more viscous. If
>you have a particularly weak or holy area, allow the left over material
>to settle in this area as it is chemically setting.
>The larger the tank, the more product you mix initially. For your large
>tank you might need a full cup. To avoid the re-stick issue that Dave
>mentioned, one could mix another portion and pour it in just as the
>first batch was beginning to thicken, but not set yet. By getting the
>timing right where you are pouring new material in over setting
>material, I would think they would be molecularly bonded and not be
>separate layers.
>FWIW, the QP in the Ford 600 tank is still working great going on 7
>years now.
>Curt Holland
>Gastonia, NC
>
>Richard Fink Sr wrote:
> > Arnie and any one else that knows. Can this be used to do like the
> > bottom of a tank then after drying. Re pore and do the sides. I have
> > a tank on a old tractor that is BAD bottom has 2 pound of lead on it
> > and still leaks sides very rusty. I would like to seal bottom then
> > coat sides it is about 20 gallon tank.  Don't know if one mix would do all,
> > Thanks
> > R Fink
> > PA
> >
> >
> >
> > At 11:15 AM 7/26/2007 -0400, you wrote:
> >
> >> Hi Alan,
> >>
> >> I've never used Lee's stuff, but I have used Kwik Poly.  Kwik Poly is a
> >> two-part thermoset sealer that does a fantastic job.  It's the consistency
> >> of water when first mixed, so you need to tape over any gross holes in the
> >> tank.  But as you slosh it around and it heats up it gets into EVERY
> >> crevice and forms a permanent, hard but flexible coating, with great
> >> adhesion.  All in all, GOOD stuff!
> >>
> >> See ya,  Arnie
> >>
> >> On Thu, 26 Jul 2007, Alan Bowen wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>> Hi Joe,
> >>> What is the advantage of Kwik Poly over the tank sealer that Lee
> >>>
> >> Pedersen  sells?
> >>
> >>> http://www.enginads.com/pedersen/index.html
> >>>
> >>> I really like the idea of pouring some in the tank, sloshing it around
> >>> then pouring the extra back into the can for later use.
> >>>
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> >
> >
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