[SEL] RE: Silver solder

[R & M Ingold]

Dont try using that stuff for copper pipe either!
Failure will be imminent! <G>
Reg & Marg Ingold.
Newcastle, NSW, Australia.
randmingold at hotkey.net.au
http://www.oldengine.org/members/randmingold

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Luke Tonneberger" <flywheelin at hotmail.com>
To: <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [SEL] RE: Silver solder


> Thanks alot Rupert.  I will report on how it comes out.  I have the oxy 
> torch set so heat won't be problem. As long as it holds I'll be happy.
>
> Luke Tonneberger
> Rockford, Michigan
> USA
> ===================
>
>>From: Rupert Wenig <rwenig at telus.net>
>>Reply-To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>>To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>>Subject: Re: [SEL] RE: Silver solder
>>Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 18:05:07 -0600
>>
>>Hello Luke,
>> I shall try. First you need a good torch with a neutral flame large 
>> enough to get the parts up to a dull red heat. A small propane torch will 
>> work for very small parts but I think you will need either oxy/acet or an 
>> acetylene turbo torch (Seibert type) to solder a 3/4" shaft. I could be 
>> wrong but I don't think straight propane will do the job. You also should 
>> have tinted goggles to protect you eyes. Oxy/ Acet goggles are fine.
>> Second; The process is similar to soft soldering if you have done that. 
>> The main difference is the temperature where the solder flows. Clean and 
>> flux the joint, clamp in a jig with about 0.001-.002" space between the 
>> parts. This space is room for the solder to flow into. Now heat the joint 
>> to almost red watching the flux. The flux will melt and start to flow. 
>> Touch the joint with the silver solder wire. The joint is hot enough when 
>> it flows. Move the torch to the other side at this point to use the heat 
>> to draw the solder into the joint. I like to melt a little bit off the 
>> solder wire to set on the joint as a guide. Try this with some scrap to 
>> get familiar with the process. Pickle in household vinegar to remove any 
>> excess flux. You should be able to see a nice thin line of flux on all 
>> sides of the joint.  Cut across the joint and look at your joint. The 
>> solder should have flowed right through the joint in a nice even thin 
>> layer if everything is right. It may take a few tries to get it right. An 
>> other point- don't overheat the joint as overheating will cause an oxide 
>> to form in the joint and prevent solder adhesion.
>>
>> Another way to set the parts up is to get the ribbon type silver solder. 
>> I bought the ribbon type I have from Cole's Power Models but that was a 
>> few years ago. Your nearest hobby store may carry it also. You place a 
>> piece of ribbon with flux on both sides in the joint when you put the 
>> parts in the clamping jig with a little pressure to squeeze the parts 
>> together. The rest of the procedure is the same as above.
>>
>> Try this and let us know how you make out.
>>Rupert
>>Ps. Refrigeration guys in your area may have Silver solder on hand. Don't 
>>confuse it with "Silfos". "Silfos" can only be used on copper.
>
>
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