[SEL] RE: Silver solder

Luke Tonneberger flywheelin at hotmail.com
Wed Apr 6 04:25:09 PDT 2005


Thanks alot Rupert.  I will report on how it comes out.  I have the oxy 
torch set so heat won't be problem. As long as it holds I'll be happy.

Luke Tonneberger
Rockford, Michigan
USA
===================

>From: Rupert Wenig <rwenig at telus.net>
>Reply-To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>Subject: Re: [SEL] RE: Silver solder
>Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 18:05:07 -0600
>
>Hello Luke,
>	I shall try. First you need a good torch with a neutral flame large enough 
>to get the parts up to a dull red heat. A small propane torch will work for 
>very small parts but I think you will need either oxy/acet or an acetylene 
>turbo torch (Seibert type) to solder a 3/4" shaft. I could be wrong but I 
>don't think straight propane will do the job. You also should have tinted 
>goggles to protect you eyes. Oxy/ Acet goggles are fine.
>	Second; The process is similar to soft soldering if you have done that. 
>The main difference is the temperature where the solder flows. Clean and 
>flux the joint, clamp in a jig with about 0.001-.002" space between the 
>parts. This space is room for the solder to flow into. Now heat the joint 
>to almost red watching the flux. The flux will melt and start to flow. 
>Touch the joint with the silver solder wire. The joint is hot enough when 
>it flows. Move the torch to the other side at this point to use the heat to 
>draw the solder into the joint. I like to melt a little bit off the solder 
>wire to set on the joint as a guide. Try this with some scrap to get 
>familiar with the process. Pickle in household vinegar to remove any excess 
>flux. You should be able to see a nice thin line of flux on all sides of 
>the joint.  Cut across the joint and look at your joint. The solder should 
>have flowed right through the joint in a nice even thin layer if everything 
>is right. It may take a few tries to get it right. An other point- don't 
>overheat the joint as overheating will cause an oxide to form in the joint 
>and prevent solder adhesion.
>
>	Another way to set the parts up is to get the ribbon type silver solder. I 
>bought the ribbon type I have from Cole's Power Models but that was a few 
>years ago. Your nearest hobby store may carry it also. You place a piece of 
>ribbon with flux on both sides in the joint when you put the parts in the 
>clamping jig with a little pressure to squeeze the parts together. The rest 
>of the procedure is the same as above.
>
>	Try this and let us know how you make out.
>Rupert
>Ps. Refrigeration guys in your area may have Silver solder on hand. Don't 
>confuse it with "Silfos". "Silfos" can only be used on copper.





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