[SEL] RE: Silver solder

[peter ogborne]

Another aspect of silver soldering as in the jewellery trade ....hard and 
easy ,these have different melting points and are great if you are doing a 
job ..soldering on soldering .
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "R & M Ingold" <randmingold at hotkey.net.au>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 7:42 PM
Subject: Re: [SEL] RE: Silver solder


> Dont try using that stuff for copper pipe either!
> Failure will be imminent! <G>
> Reg & Marg Ingold.
> Newcastle, NSW, Australia.
> randmingold at hotkey.net.au
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/randmingold
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Luke Tonneberger" <flywheelin at hotmail.com>
> To: <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2005 9:25 PM
> Subject: Re: [SEL] RE: Silver solder
>
>
>> Thanks alot Rupert.  I will report on how it comes out.  I have the oxy 
>> torch set so heat won't be problem. As long as it holds I'll be happy.
>>
>> Luke Tonneberger
>> Rockford, Michigan
>> USA
>> ===================
>>
>>>From: Rupert Wenig <rwenig at telus.net>
>>>Reply-To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>>>To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>>>Subject: Re: [SEL] RE: Silver solder
>>>Date: Tue, 05 Apr 2005 18:05:07 -0600
>>>
>>>Hello Luke,
>>> I shall try. First you need a good torch with a neutral flame large 
>>> enough to get the parts up to a dull red heat. A small propane torch 
>>> will work for very small parts but I think you will need either oxy/acet 
>>> or an acetylene turbo torch (Seibert type) to solder a 3/4" shaft. I 
>>> could be wrong but I don't think straight propane will do the job. You 
>>> also should have tinted goggles to protect you eyes. Oxy/ Acet goggles 
>>> are fine.
>>> Second; The process is similar to soft soldering if you have done that. 
>>> The main difference is the temperature where the solder flows. Clean and 
>>> flux the joint, clamp in a jig with about 0.001-.002" space between the 
>>> parts. This space is room for the solder to flow into. Now heat the 
>>> joint to almost red watching the flux. The flux will melt and start to 
>>> flow. Touch the joint with the silver solder wire. The joint is hot 
>>> enough when it flows. Move the torch to the other side at this point to 
>>> use the heat to draw the solder into the joint. I like to melt a little 
>>> bit off the solder wire to set on the joint as a guide. Try this with 
>>> some scrap to get familiar with the process. Pickle in household vinegar 
>>> to remove any excess flux. You should be able to see a nice thin line of 
>>> flux on all sides of the joint.  Cut across the joint and look at your 
>>> joint. The solder should have flowed right through the joint in a nice 
>>> even thin layer if everything is right. It may take a few tries to get 
>>> it right. An other point- don't overheat the joint as overheating will 
>>> cause an oxide to form in the joint and prevent solder adhesion.
>>>
>>> Another way to set the parts up is to get the ribbon type silver solder. 
>>> I bought the ribbon type I have from Cole's Power Models but that was a 
>>> few years ago. Your nearest hobby store may carry it also. You place a 
>>> piece of ribbon with flux on both sides in the joint when you put the 
>>> parts in the clamping jig with a little pressure to squeeze the parts 
>>> together. The rest of the procedure is the same as above.
>>>
>>> Try this and let us know how you make out.
>>>Rupert
>>>Ps. Refrigeration guys in your area may have Silver solder on hand. Don't 
>>>confuse it with "Silfos". "Silfos" can only be used on copper.
>>
>>
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