[SEL] RE: Silver solder

Rupert Wenig rwenig at telus.net
Tue Apr 5 17:05:07 PDT 2005


Hello Luke,
	I shall try. First you need a good torch with a neutral flame large 
enough to get the parts up to a dull red heat. A small propane torch 
will work for very small parts but I think you will need either oxy/acet 
or an acetylene turbo torch (Seibert type) to solder a 3/4" shaft. I 
could be wrong but I don't think straight propane will do the job. You 
also should have tinted goggles to protect you eyes. Oxy/ Acet goggles 
are fine.
	Second; The process is similar to soft soldering if you have done that. 
The main difference is the temperature where the solder flows. Clean and 
flux the joint, clamp in a jig with about 0.001-.002" space between the 
parts. This space is room for the solder to flow into. Now heat the 
joint to almost red watching the flux. The flux will melt and start to 
flow. Touch the joint with the silver solder wire. The joint is hot 
enough when it flows. Move the torch to the other side at this point to 
use the heat to draw the solder into the joint. I like to melt a little 
bit off the solder wire to set on the joint as a guide. Try this with 
some scrap to get familiar with the process. Pickle in household vinegar 
to remove any excess flux. You should be able to see a nice thin line of 
flux on all sides of the joint.  Cut across the joint and look at your 
joint. The solder should have flowed right through the joint in a nice 
even thin layer if everything is right. It may take a few tries to get 
it right. An other point- don't overheat the joint as overheating will 
cause an oxide to form in the joint and prevent solder adhesion.

	Another way to set the parts up is to get the ribbon type silver 
solder. I bought the ribbon type I have from Cole's Power Models but 
that was a few years ago. Your nearest hobby store may carry it also. 
You place a piece of ribbon with flux on both sides in the joint when 
you put the parts in the clamping jig with a little pressure to squeeze 
the parts together. The rest of the procedure is the same as above.

	Try this and let us know how you make out.
Rupert
Ps. Refrigeration guys in your area may have Silver solder on hand. 
Don't confuse it with "Silfos". "Silfos" can only be used on copper.

Luke Tonneberger wrote:

> Thanks Rupert. Could you give me any tips/advice for the process of 
> silver soldering? This will be my first attempt at it.
> 
> Luke Tonneberger
> Rockford, Michigan
> USA
> =============================
> 
>> From: Rupert Wenig <rwenig at telus.net>
>>
>> Hello Luke,
>>     I'm not Reg but maybe this will suffice until Reg is back on line.
>>     I assume your building the crank for Reg's engine. I use "Silvaloy 
>> 45 or Silvaloy A-45" <http://www.wlv.com/joining/hi-ag.htm> which I 
>> can get from Ackland Grainger here for similar applications.
>>     Hope this helps.
>>
>> Rupert
>> Luke Tonneberger wrote:
>>
>>> Arthur,
>>>
>>> Today I asked Reg what silver content I needed in some silver solder 
>>> for a crankshaft I'm making and it came back delivery failed. I think 
>>> something might be wrong with his email.
>>>
>>> Luke Tonneberger
>>> Rockford, Michigan
>>> USA
> 
> 
> 
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