[SEL] RE: Silver solder
Rupert Wenig
rwenig at telus.net
Tue Apr 5 17:05:07 PDT 2005
Hello Luke,
I shall try. First you need a good torch with a neutral flame large
enough to get the parts up to a dull red heat. A small propane torch
will work for very small parts but I think you will need either oxy/acet
or an acetylene turbo torch (Seibert type) to solder a 3/4" shaft. I
could be wrong but I don't think straight propane will do the job. You
also should have tinted goggles to protect you eyes. Oxy/ Acet goggles
are fine.
Second; The process is similar to soft soldering if you have done that.
The main difference is the temperature where the solder flows. Clean and
flux the joint, clamp in a jig with about 0.001-.002" space between the
parts. This space is room for the solder to flow into. Now heat the
joint to almost red watching the flux. The flux will melt and start to
flow. Touch the joint with the silver solder wire. The joint is hot
enough when it flows. Move the torch to the other side at this point to
use the heat to draw the solder into the joint. I like to melt a little
bit off the solder wire to set on the joint as a guide. Try this with
some scrap to get familiar with the process. Pickle in household vinegar
to remove any excess flux. You should be able to see a nice thin line of
flux on all sides of the joint. Cut across the joint and look at your
joint. The solder should have flowed right through the joint in a nice
even thin layer if everything is right. It may take a few tries to get
it right. An other point- don't overheat the joint as overheating will
cause an oxide to form in the joint and prevent solder adhesion.
Another way to set the parts up is to get the ribbon type silver
solder. I bought the ribbon type I have from Cole's Power Models but
that was a few years ago. Your nearest hobby store may carry it also.
You place a piece of ribbon with flux on both sides in the joint when
you put the parts in the clamping jig with a little pressure to squeeze
the parts together. The rest of the procedure is the same as above.
Try this and let us know how you make out.
Rupert
Ps. Refrigeration guys in your area may have Silver solder on hand.
Don't confuse it with "Silfos". "Silfos" can only be used on copper.
Luke Tonneberger wrote:
> Thanks Rupert. Could you give me any tips/advice for the process of
> silver soldering? This will be my first attempt at it.
>
> Luke Tonneberger
> Rockford, Michigan
> USA
> =============================
>
>> From: Rupert Wenig <rwenig at telus.net>
>>
>> Hello Luke,
>> I'm not Reg but maybe this will suffice until Reg is back on line.
>> I assume your building the crank for Reg's engine. I use "Silvaloy
>> 45 or Silvaloy A-45" <http://www.wlv.com/joining/hi-ag.htm> which I
>> can get from Ackland Grainger here for similar applications.
>> Hope this helps.
>>
>> Rupert
>> Luke Tonneberger wrote:
>>
>>> Arthur,
>>>
>>> Today I asked Reg what silver content I needed in some silver solder
>>> for a crankshaft I'm making and it came back delivery failed. I think
>>> something might be wrong with his email.
>>>
>>> Luke Tonneberger
>>> Rockford, Michigan
>>> USA
>
>
>
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