[SEL] Cast iron welding

[Peter Lowe]

Thank you, will pass it on.
Peter


Nickel rod. Before welding grind down so you'll be able to weld most of the 
broken surface but not all the way to a point as you'll still need to be 
able to align the two parts and the bit of surface that you leave can help 
align. Weld Only where there is NO wind or people moving around! Preheat 
very well. Weld just a little bit then continue tapping the welded part with 
the point of your chipping hammer at the same time you are continuing to 
"preheat". The heat you are adding propane or butane. Acetylene could be 
used but keep it moving! After your weld and the parent metal have settled 
to the same temperature, you are ready to weld a little bit more. Continue 
until it is all welded. Adding extra weld larger than the original sometimes 
will make your  end product stronger. Now that your piece seems exceedingly 
hot try your best to let it cool as slow as possible. No wind. No water. 
Blankets or sand etc can help unless you blanket catches fire - oops. Good 
luck. I've been pretty lucky using this procedure.

Glenn Wilson
www.WilsonsWarbler.com

On Mar 27, 2013, at 4:39 AM, "Peter Lowe" <plowe at exemail.com.au> wrote:

Hi Guys
I know this has been discussed before, but I guess unless you are interested 
at the time you don’t take it in.
My friend has a tractor that has a cracked housing at the front, not sure 
exactly, but it is a load bearing part.
OK, what is the best way to weld this here in Australia, type of rods, 
techniques, pre-heating, cooling etc.

Regards
Peter Lowe
R&V Engine Registrar
http://www.oldengine.org/members/plowe/rv-engines/rvpage.htm
Australia
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