[SEL] Cast iron welding

[Glenn Wilson]

Nickel rod. Before welding grind down so you'll be able to weld most of the broken surface but not all the way to a point as you'll still need to be able to align the two parts and the bit of surface that you leave can help align. Weld Only where there is NO wind or people moving around! Preheat very well. Weld just a little bit then continue tapping the welded part with the point of your chipping hammer at the same time you are continuing to "preheat". The heat you are adding propane or butane. Acetylene could be used but keep it moving! After your weld and the parent metal have settled to the same temperature, you are ready to weld a little bit more. Continue until it is all welded. Adding extra weld larger than the original sometimes will make your  end product stronger. Now that your piece seems exceedingly hot try your best to let it cool as slow as possible. No wind. No water. Blankets or sand etc can help unless you blanket catches fire - oops. Good luck. I've been pretty lucky using this procedure. 

Glenn Wilson
www.WilsonsWarbler.com

On Mar 27, 2013, at 4:39 AM, "Peter Lowe" <plowe at exemail.com.au> wrote:

Hi Guys
I know this has been discussed before, but I guess unless you are interested at the time you don’t take it in.
My friend has a tractor that has a cracked housing at the front, not sure exactly, but it is a load bearing part.
OK, what is the best way to weld this here in Australia, type of rods, techniques, pre-heating, cooling etc.

Regards
Peter Lowe
R&V Engine Registrar
http://www.oldengine.org/members/plowe/rv-engines/rvpage.htm
Australia
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