[SEL] Question re tapered gib keys

Elden DuRand edurand at mchsi.com
Mon Sep 14 15:27:39 PDT 2009


Jerry:

Let me throw my two cents worth into the fray.  Remember, though, that the advice I give is worth about two cents less than you paid.

What I would do would be to carefully fit a new key that is snug in both the flywheel and the crankshaft.  You may have to machine it to a different width for the crank than for the wheel but the idea is to get rid of any clearance.

Ghen, before the final assembly, I'd clean the heck out of the bore and the shaft and apply a drop or two of Loktite (or a similar locking compound).  Assemble, tighten the draw bolt then let it sit for a day or two for the Loktite to set-up.

That should hold things together and should (if you've selected the proper grade of locking compound) still allow removal of the wheel if necessary.

Take care - Elden
http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com
> [mailto:sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com]On
>  Behalf Of Jerry Evans
> Sent: Monday, September 14, 2009 01:55 PM
> To: stationary-engine at oldengine.org; 
> sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> Subject: [SEL] Question re tapered gib keys
> 
> 
> Hi to the knowledge base (that's all you guys out 
> there in engineland) :-)
> 
>          A few questions re tapered "Gib Keys" 
> but first I'll explain the 
> problem - this may be a bit long winded!
> 
>          The flywheel on my little Ronnie N keeps 
> coming loose......

......................snippety, snip................................

> Keep the revs up (or down)
> Jerry Evans
> Near Johannesburg in Sunny South Africa.
> Etched Brass Engine Plates made to order:
> <www.oldengine.org/members/evans/plates/index.htm





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