[SEL] Spam> Conundrum/Puzzle/Stumped

Steve W. falcon at telenet.net
Mon Sep 7 07:48:56 PDT 2009


Bruce Younger wrote:
> I am at my wits’ end on a mechanical problem.  I know someone here
> has the knowledge to point me in the right direction.
> 
> 
> 
> I have a bicycle rack that mounts in a receiver hitch.  It fastens
> using a bolt that goes where the hitch pin normally goes, but with a
> twist. It is threaded on the head end, but reduced in diameter on the
> opposite end.  The rack is 1 – ¼”, the receiver is 2”.  There is an
> adapter sleeve that fits in the receiver, surrounding the rack on
> three sides.  The bolt goes in on the side where the 1 – ¼” stock is
> next to the inside of the receiver, thence through the adapter
> sleeve, and out the other side.  That end of the bolt, as mentioned,
> is reduced in diameter and drilled for a linch pin to serve as a 
> safety device, so if the bolt should come loose it can’t fall
> completely out.  The inner wall of the 1 – ¼” stock is threaded.
> 
> 
> 
> I removed the rack from the receiver to replace the adapter sleeve,
> as it had become worn  and allowed too much movement of the rack. 
> Somehow in the reinstallation, the the bolt hung up and apparently 
> cross-threaded – at any rate, it will not go in, will not come out.
> I have tried driving the small end, and a pickle fork and a three
> pounder on the head end.  I tried an impact wrench in conjunction
> with the pickle fork  I can make no progress.  We are fixin’ to go on
> the road again in a week, and I can’t take off without resolving
> this.  If it comes to it, I will saw it off, or find someone with a
> cutting torch and cut it off. Who has a better idea?
> 
> 
> 
> Bruce Younger
> 
> 05G HHC 313 RR Bn 3/67-4/68
> 
> Madison, SD

Well if I understand what you have it sounds like you need some HEAT.
Heat the threaded section of steel and then use a good socket and
breaker bar on the bolt. Once out chase the threads OR bore the entire
thing out so a standard pin will fit through it.

-- 
Steve W.




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