[SEL] Another one lives./Update

[bill at antique-engines.com]

Condensers can leak or be weak  - they leak current through the inner
insulation and thus don't hold or store as much energy as well.
I'd close that gap a bit - give the coil more time to saturate.
Closing the points means that they open a tad later after more lines of
force have been able to move through the coil.

give it a shot........

Bill

> At 06:00 PM 03/06/2009, you wrote:
>>Message: 2
>>Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 18:08:51 -0500
>>From: "Elden DuRand" <edurand at mchsi.com>
>>Subject: Re: [SEL] Another one lives./Update
>>
>>Jerry:
>>Not being a Maytag expert, I'll jump in here anyway.
>>If the engine runs better with one plug shorted or with the gaps knocked
>>down, I'd suspect weak spark from misadjusted points, condenser(!) or bad
>> coil.
>>Take care - Elden
>>http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand
>
> Thanks Elden,
>          Every bit of info is something new that I learn from the list and
> I'm grateful for it.
>
>          Weak spark is also my concern. As mentioned previously, I'm
> wondering if the spark from this Briggs coil is not as strong as the
> original Maytag coil. Some questions follow.
>
>          I know that the points are correct for the Maytag. 0.020" checked
> and rechecked after turning over a few times (I did it a few times to be
> sure) - this is also the same setting that others doing this conversion
> have stuck to.
>
>          What would be the effect of opening or closing this (ignition
> point) gap a few thou ? In my ignorance I assume that it would advance or
> retard the timing or would it have an effect on the "strength" of the
> spark
> as well ?
>
>          I had not considered the condenser - I was assuming that if there
> was a spark then the condenser must be O.K. - Does a condenser get
> "weaker"
> as it ages or does it just "stop" working - would an old condenser make a
> difference to the strength of the spark (I'm showing my ignorance here).
>
>          I'll add new condensers to my order to Mark. (Mark are you
> reading
> this - make that 2 for the twin and 1 for the single (92) thanks) but in
> the meanwhile could anyone tell me what "modern" condenser I could
> substitute as a test.
>
>          Elden remember also, that I'm quite happy with the way it is
> running (did you look at <and listen to> the video) and maybe I'm just be
> expecting too much after what other people have said about it's
> smoothness.
> I think it's running great considering that it is not pulling a load but
> maybe there is something better (Arnie and Dave - as Peter mentioned - go
> away!  :-))
>
>          The main problem I have at present is that it's hard to start
> with
> the kick starter - I can start it with the kickstarter when it's warmed up
> but not all that easily - it also starts easier (with the kick start) if I
> short one plug to earth ie. the full strength of the spark goes to one
> cylinder (or spark plug). I've still got it mounted on a bench so my arm
> must provide the "kickstart" power - I assume that my arm is not as
> powerful as the average 1940's midwestern housewives leg :-)
>          Currently I'm starting it with an electric drill and it starts
> very easily after just a few revs.
>
>          Elden, you mentioned that you were not familiar with the Maytag
> and for that reason allow my to explain the following which may influence
> your reply:
>          The Maytag coil winding (the one that creates the spark - is that
> primary or secondary - I can never remember ?) is not earthed - both plugs
> fire at the same time - the "path" of the spark is as follows - from coil
> to first plug (the spark jumps the gap) and then using the engine block as
> a conductor (not ground) to the second plug (jumps the gap again) and
> thereafter back to the coil. Many people find this hard to understand (I'm
> one of them) but that is how it works. That's the reason that, if you
> short
> one plug straight to the block it is easier to start - the full "power" of
> the spark only has to jump one gap (not two). Shorting one plug lead to
> the
> block is not the same as removing a plug lead from one plug - doing that
> could build up too much tension in the coil and cause damage to it.
> Certain
> Briggs & Stratton, Wisconsin and Onan twin cylinder engines used the same
> system - which explains why I've used a Briggs coil.
>
>          I've got other things to check on this engine as well but it's
> been a really nice learning experience so far.
>
>          Thanks for your interest and help.
>
>
> Keep the revs up (or down)
> Jerry Evans
> Near Johannesburg in Sunny South Africa.
> Etched Brass Engine Plates made to order:
> <www.oldengine.org/members/evans/plates/index.htm>
>
>
>
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