[SEL] Another one lives./Update

[Jerry Evans]

At 06:00 PM 03/06/2009, you wrote:
>Message: 2
>Date: Tue, 2 Jun 2009 18:08:51 -0500
>From: "Elden DuRand" <edurand at mchsi.com>
>Subject: Re: [SEL] Another one lives./Update
>
>Jerry:
>Not being a Maytag expert, I'll jump in here anyway.
>If the engine runs better with one plug shorted or with the gaps knocked 
>down, I'd suspect weak spark from misadjusted points, condenser(!) or bad coil.
>Take care - Elden
>http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand

Thanks Elden,
         Every bit of info is something new that I learn from the list and 
I'm grateful for it.

         Weak spark is also my concern. As mentioned previously, I'm 
wondering if the spark from this Briggs coil is not as strong as the 
original Maytag coil. Some questions follow.

         I know that the points are correct for the Maytag. 0.020" checked 
and rechecked after turning over a few times (I did it a few times to be 
sure) - this is also the same setting that others doing this conversion 
have stuck to.

         What would be the effect of opening or closing this (ignition 
point) gap a few thou ? In my ignorance I assume that it would advance or 
retard the timing or would it have an effect on the "strength" of the spark 
as well ?

         I had not considered the condenser - I was assuming that if there 
was a spark then the condenser must be O.K. - Does a condenser get "weaker" 
as it ages or does it just "stop" working - would an old condenser make a 
difference to the strength of the spark (I'm showing my ignorance here).

         I'll add new condensers to my order to Mark. (Mark are you reading 
this - make that 2 for the twin and 1 for the single (92) thanks) but in 
the meanwhile could anyone tell me what "modern" condenser I could 
substitute as a test.

         Elden remember also, that I'm quite happy with the way it is 
running (did you look at <and listen to> the video) and maybe I'm just be 
expecting too much after what other people have said about it's smoothness. 
I think it's running great considering that it is not pulling a load but 
maybe there is something better (Arnie and Dave - as Peter mentioned - go 
away!  :-))

         The main problem I have at present is that it's hard to start with 
the kick starter - I can start it with the kickstarter when it's warmed up 
but not all that easily - it also starts easier (with the kick start) if I 
short one plug to earth ie. the full strength of the spark goes to one 
cylinder (or spark plug). I've still got it mounted on a bench so my arm 
must provide the "kickstart" power - I assume that my arm is not as 
powerful as the average 1940's midwestern housewives leg :-)
         Currently I'm starting it with an electric drill and it starts 
very easily after just a few revs.

         Elden, you mentioned that you were not familiar with the Maytag 
and for that reason allow my to explain the following which may influence 
your reply:
         The Maytag coil winding (the one that creates the spark - is that 
primary or secondary - I can never remember ?) is not earthed - both plugs 
fire at the same time - the "path" of the spark is as follows - from coil 
to first plug (the spark jumps the gap) and then using the engine block as 
a conductor (not ground) to the second plug (jumps the gap again) and 
thereafter back to the coil. Many people find this hard to understand (I'm 
one of them) but that is how it works. That's the reason that, if you short 
one plug straight to the block it is easier to start - the full "power" of 
the spark only has to jump one gap (not two). Shorting one plug lead to the 
block is not the same as removing a plug lead from one plug - doing that 
could build up too much tension in the coil and cause damage to it. Certain 
Briggs & Stratton, Wisconsin and Onan twin cylinder engines used the same 
system - which explains why I've used a Briggs coil.

         I've got other things to check on this engine as well but it's 
been a really nice learning experience so far.

         Thanks for your interest and help.


Keep the revs up (or down)
Jerry Evans
Near Johannesburg in Sunny South Africa.
Etched Brass Engine Plates made to order:
<www.oldengine.org/members/evans/plates/index.htm>