[SEL] Kwik Poly Sealer

[Alan Bowen]

Hey, Dave.

right from the POR-15 web site.  I went to something like Fuel System help, then to the tank sealer, then I clicked on the directions.

I grabbed this to paste here.

Here’s how to clean out a 25 gallon fuel tank:

1. Mix 1 quart of Marine-Clean with 1 quart of very hot water
and pour it into the tank GLOVES AND EYE PROTECTION
SHOULD BE WORN AT ALL TIMES.
Shake the tank, then place it in a different position every 2 hours
so the solution can cover all inside surfaces. When all surfaces
have been subjected to the cleaning solution, shake it again,
then dump out the tank, rinse it with water, dump out the water,
and start all over again. The first time you dump the solution, it’ll
be very dirty; after the second solution has been discarded, the
tank should be clean. Rinse the tank out with fresh hot water,
drain thoroughly, then pour in the full container of Metal-Ready.

2. With the Metal-Ready in the tank, again shake, then place the
tank in different positions every half hour until the entire inside of
the tank has been treated with Metal-Ready. Then rinse the tank
thoroughly with hot water several times and drain it. In order to
get the tank completely dry, you must blow warm air into it for a
long time. No tank will dry out on the inside by itself. The only
way to do this job is to use forced air. TANKS MUST BE COMPLETELY
DRY INSIDE BEFORE SEALING. THE SEALER
WILL NOT STICK TO A DAMP OR WET TANK.

3. Pour in the entire can of fuel tank sealer and “roll” the tank
around so that all surfaces come in contact with the sealer.
Then drain for at least 30 minutes to ensure that sealer has not
“puddled” in tank. After you’ve done this, dump out the left-over
sealer back into the can, but DON’T PUT THE LID BACK ON
THE CAN TIGHTLY OR IT MAY EXPLODE! Leave the can
open and it will harden overnight. Then throw it out the next day.
Allow 72 - 96 hours for sealer to dry. Air dry tank in a well-ventilated
area. Maximum cure will be reached in 96 hours. Setup
time can be improved by using a low pressure blower or hair
dryer (low or no heat) and circulating it through one hole in tank
and out another.


I don't know how well you followed the first stem, but you sure didn't follow the third one. 8>))))

Alan Bowen


Dave Ernst <shop at cccomm.net> wrote: Bought some extra special motorcycle type tank sealer called POR 15. Spendy 
stuff and I followed all the directions and used the wash, primer and then 
the sealer just as I was supposed to.  The last instruction was to drain the 
remainder of the sealer and discard it. No way was I going to waste the 
stuff as the kit was in the $40 range and just the sealer portion was less 
than a 1/4 pint, so I drained it back into the can and sealed it.  About 10 
minutes later there was a big bang as the lid blew off and the stuff 
continued to froth and harden.  The tank is a new one I made for under the 
fairbanks and it leaks also.

Sounds as if Kwik Poly is the one to use.

Dave

       
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