[SEL] First Engine

[Jim and Diane]

Hi Tom,

Your engine probably has a compression ratio of 4 to 1 more or less.  Just 
pull the flywheel through and see what you feel.  Should be some resistance 
but probably but not so much it is hard to pull.  As somebody suggested 
earlier get the bore and everything else well oiled so that friction is not 
a big factor.  Engines of this vintage that have been sitting a long time 
are prone to stuck rings so oil the hell out of it.

Jim

Jim and Diane
Hemet, CA , U.S.A.
jd.kirkes at verizon.net
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <mullt at att.net>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 21, 2007 2:27 PM
Subject: Re: [SEL] First Engine


Arnie,

Thanks for the information. I tried sending some picutues to the list but 
apparently the list will not take emials with large files attached.

What is the easiest way to check the compression? Do I need a compression 
gauge? If it has an igniter, then I can't connect a gauge like I would in a 
spark plug hole. Thanks.

Tom
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Arnie Fero <fero_ah at city-net.com>
> Hi Tom,
>
> WELCOME to the list and to the hobby.  A good place to start is with the
> excellent FAQ page that's been compiled.
> http://www.steamengine.com.au/ic/faq/index.html
>
> It's definitely better if you can personally inspect the engine rather
> than buying on words and a picture until you get to know a given seller
> well.  It's even better if you can take an "engine buddy" along to help
> with the evaluation.  Where are you located?
>
> One very nice thing about the IHC "M" is that information and parts are
> readily abailable.
>
> Assuming that you can put your hands on the engine...  Take a squirt oil
> can with you.  Look the engine over and identify the major pieces and
> picture in your mind how they'll work.  Start at the head end of the
> engine.  Look for obvious cracks and breaks and welds or brazing that
> would indicate prior problems.
>
> Put some oil on the intake valve stem and work it in and out.  You want to
> make sure that its free and see if the valve guide is badly worn.  Put
> some oil on the exhaust valve stem and the rocker arm pivot and work the
> rocker arm to make sure that the exhaust valve is free, again checking for
> wear.
>
> Take a look at the mixer; does it have three knobs or just one.  If just
> one, it's gasoline only, if three it's start on gas and run on kerosene.
>
> Since this has the Model L magneto, that means that its a low-tension or
> ignitor style ignition (as opposed to high tension or spark plug
> ignition).  There's nothing wrong with that, most folks feel that its more
> interesting, it's just harder to check when you're doing a purchase
> evaluation.  I'll leave it to others so suggest their favorite way of
> quickly checking a low tension mag/ignitor.  At a minimum, give the
> moveable bits on the ignitor a bit of oil and make sure that they're free.
>
> Drop down the side of the engine and check the fuel pump and make sure the
> moving parts are free.
>
> At this point it should be safe to give the flywheels a couple of turns to
> check for compression.  I say "safe" because you shouldn't break anything
> that was stuck.  If you don't have good compression, remove the cylinder
> oiler (that brass thingie above the water hopper) and squirt a goodly
> amount of oil down the pipe while turning the engine over.  Often an
> engine that's been sitting for a while has a "dry bore" and will have
> little to no compression.  If you still have little to no compression, you
> are looking at future repair that may be as little as new rings or as much
> as new piston / cylinder sleeve.  For a first engine I'd pass on one that
> didn't have good compression.
>
> Next you want to check the condition of the bearings.  Grab each flywheel
> near the top and lift up.  You're looking for significant "looseness"
> between the bearing cap and the crankshaft.  Next take the hand hole cover
> off and reach in and grab the connecting rod.  Here you're looking for
> obvious looseness at the big end bearing and at the wrist pin.
>
> At this point I'd oil and check all the other moving bits and get ready to
> try starting the engine.  Put some gas in the mixer bowl (there should be
> a removable pipe plug to allow you to do that).  Open the needle valve
> some, close the choke plate, and pull the flywheels smartly through
> compression.  The owner of the engine probably has engine starting
> experience and should be willing to help in this process.  With luck,
> you'll be rewarded with the sweet sound of a running engine.  Don't be
> surprised if this part of the "first time" experience gives you a woodie.
> That's fairly common.  8-))
>
> If it won't start you need to make a decision.  It may require significant
> work (which may be why the owner hasn't been able to get it running
> either), or it might be something as minor as a mis-timed engine or a mag
> that needs charged, or a dirty set of ignitor points.
>
> My recommendation is that if you encounter any major problems checking
> the engine over or if you can't get it started, walk away.
>
> There's a LOT of nice running engines out there and for a "first engine",
> start with a runner.  There's lots of time to get and work on non-running
> engines once you have some experience and can do a better job of
> evaluating what you're getting into in terms of work needed and expense.
>
> The last things to check on are things that affect the price.  Does it
> have original paint and decals, does it have original IHC-marked grease
> cups, does it have an oiler, muffler, is it on a cart (original is a plus)
> or just a skid, and does it have the tag with serial number that will
> allow you to date the engine.
>
> Finally, be sure to post the tale of your experience to the list.  Folks
> can learn from you and offer additional advice.
>
> GOOD LUCK and have fun!!
>
> See ya,  Arnie
>
> Arnie Fero
> Pittsburgh, PA
> fero_ah at city-net.com
>
> On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 mullt at att.net wrote:
>
> > I'm about to "take the leap" and  buy my first engine. It looks like it
> > is a 2.5hp IH Model M with a Model L magneto. From the pictures it looks
> > complete. The owner says he has not run it but that it was running when
> > he bought it. He is asking $500.
> >
> > Since I am new at this, I was wondering what I should look at to make
> > sure the engine is in reasonable condition and that I can get it running
> > without spending big $$$. Does the asking price seem reasonable?
> >
> > Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
> >
> > Tom
>
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