[SEL] First Engine

[mullt at att.net]

Arnie,

Thanks for the information. I tried sending some picutues to the list but apparently the list will not take emials with large files attached.

What is the easiest way to check the compression? Do I need a compression gauge? If it has an igniter, then I can't connect a gauge like I would in a spark plug hole. Thanks.

Tom
 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Arnie Fero <fero_ah at city-net.com>
> Hi Tom,
> 
> WELCOME to the list and to the hobby.  A good place to start is with the
> excellent FAQ page that's been compiled.
> http://www.steamengine.com.au/ic/faq/index.html
> 
> It's definitely better if you can personally inspect the engine rather
> than buying on words and a picture until you get to know a given seller
> well.  It's even better if you can take an "engine buddy" along to help
> with the evaluation.  Where are you located?
> 
> One very nice thing about the IHC "M" is that information and parts are
> readily abailable.
> 
> Assuming that you can put your hands on the engine...  Take a squirt oil
> can with you.  Look the engine over and identify the major pieces and
> picture in your mind how they'll work.  Start at the head end of the
> engine.  Look for obvious cracks and breaks and welds or brazing that
> would indicate prior problems.
> 
> Put some oil on the intake valve stem and work it in and out.  You want to
> make sure that its free and see if the valve guide is badly worn.  Put
> some oil on the exhaust valve stem and the rocker arm pivot and work the
> rocker arm to make sure that the exhaust valve is free, again checking for
> wear.
> 
> Take a look at the mixer; does it have three knobs or just one.  If just
> one, it's gasoline only, if three it's start on gas and run on kerosene.
> 
> Since this has the Model L magneto, that means that its a low-tension or
> ignitor style ignition (as opposed to high tension or spark plug
> ignition).  There's nothing wrong with that, most folks feel that its more
> interesting, it's just harder to check when you're doing a purchase
> evaluation.  I'll leave it to others so suggest their favorite way of
> quickly checking a low tension mag/ignitor.  At a minimum, give the
> moveable bits on the ignitor a bit of oil and make sure that they're free.
> 
> Drop down the side of the engine and check the fuel pump and make sure the
> moving parts are free.
> 
> At this point it should be safe to give the flywheels a couple of turns to
> check for compression.  I say "safe" because you shouldn't break anything
> that was stuck.  If you don't have good compression, remove the cylinder
> oiler (that brass thingie above the water hopper) and squirt a goodly
> amount of oil down the pipe while turning the engine over.  Often an
> engine that's been sitting for a while has a "dry bore" and will have
> little to no compression.  If you still have little to no compression, you
> are looking at future repair that may be as little as new rings or as much
> as new piston / cylinder sleeve.  For a first engine I'd pass on one that
> didn't have good compression.
> 
> Next you want to check the condition of the bearings.  Grab each flywheel
> near the top and lift up.  You're looking for significant "looseness"
> between the bearing cap and the crankshaft.  Next take the hand hole cover
> off and reach in and grab the connecting rod.  Here you're looking for
> obvious looseness at the big end bearing and at the wrist pin.
> 
> At this point I'd oil and check all the other moving bits and get ready to
> try starting the engine.  Put some gas in the mixer bowl (there should be
> a removable pipe plug to allow you to do that).  Open the needle valve
> some, close the choke plate, and pull the flywheels smartly through
> compression.  The owner of the engine probably has engine starting
> experience and should be willing to help in this process.  With luck,
> you'll be rewarded with the sweet sound of a running engine.  Don't be
> surprised if this part of the "first time" experience gives you a woodie.
> That's fairly common.  8-))
> 
> If it won't start you need to make a decision.  It may require significant
> work (which may be why the owner hasn't been able to get it running
> either), or it might be something as minor as a mis-timed engine or a mag
> that needs charged, or a dirty set of ignitor points.
> 
> My recommendation is that if you encounter any major problems checking
> the engine over or if you can't get it started, walk away.
> 
> There's a LOT of nice running engines out there and for a "first engine",
> start with a runner.  There's lots of time to get and work on non-running
> engines once you have some experience and can do a better job of
> evaluating what you're getting into in terms of work needed and expense.
> 
> The last things to check on are things that affect the price.  Does it
> have original paint and decals, does it have original IHC-marked grease
> cups, does it have an oiler, muffler, is it on a cart (original is a plus)
> or just a skid, and does it have the tag with serial number that will
> allow you to date the engine.
> 
> Finally, be sure to post the tale of your experience to the list.  Folks
> can learn from you and offer additional advice.
> 
> GOOD LUCK and have fun!!
> 
> See ya,  Arnie
> 
> Arnie Fero
> Pittsburgh, PA
> fero_ah at city-net.com
> 
> On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 mullt at att.net wrote:
> 
> > I'm about to "take the leap" and  buy my first engine. It looks like it
> > is a 2.5hp IH Model M with a Model L magneto. From the pictures it looks
> > complete. The owner says he has not run it but that it was running when
> > he bought it. He is asking $500.
> >
> > Since I am new at this, I was wondering what I should look at to make
> > sure the engine is in reasonable condition and that I can get it running
> > without spending big $$$. Does the asking price seem reasonable?
> >
> > Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
> >
> > Tom
> 
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