[SEL] First Engine

[Arnie Fero]

Hi Tom,

WELCOME to the list and to the hobby.  A good place to start is with the
excellent FAQ page that's been compiled.
http://www.steamengine.com.au/ic/faq/index.html

It's definitely better if you can personally inspect the engine rather
than buying on words and a picture until you get to know a given seller
well.  It's even better if you can take an "engine buddy" along to help
with the evaluation.  Where are you located?

One very nice thing about the IHC "M" is that information and parts are
readily abailable.

Assuming that you can put your hands on the engine...  Take a squirt oil
can with you.  Look the engine over and identify the major pieces and
picture in your mind how they'll work.  Start at the head end of the
engine.  Look for obvious cracks and breaks and welds or brazing that
would indicate prior problems.

Put some oil on the intake valve stem and work it in and out.  You want to
make sure that its free and see if the valve guide is badly worn.  Put
some oil on the exhaust valve stem and the rocker arm pivot and work the
rocker arm to make sure that the exhaust valve is free, again checking for
wear.

Take a look at the mixer; does it have three knobs or just one.  If just
one, it's gasoline only, if three it's start on gas and run on kerosene.

Since this has the Model L magneto, that means that its a low-tension or
ignitor style ignition (as opposed to high tension or spark plug
ignition).  There's nothing wrong with that, most folks feel that its more
interesting, it's just harder to check when you're doing a purchase
evaluation.  I'll leave it to others so suggest their favorite way of
quickly checking a low tension mag/ignitor.  At a minimum, give the
moveable bits on the ignitor a bit of oil and make sure that they're free.

Drop down the side of the engine and check the fuel pump and make sure the
moving parts are free.

At this point it should be safe to give the flywheels a couple of turns to
check for compression.  I say "safe" because you shouldn't break anything
that was stuck.  If you don't have good compression, remove the cylinder
oiler (that brass thingie above the water hopper) and squirt a goodly
amount of oil down the pipe while turning the engine over.  Often an
engine that's been sitting for a while has a "dry bore" and will have
little to no compression.  If you still have little to no compression, you
are looking at future repair that may be as little as new rings or as much
as new piston / cylinder sleeve.  For a first engine I'd pass on one that
didn't have good compression.

Next you want to check the condition of the bearings.  Grab each flywheel
near the top and lift up.  You're looking for significant "looseness"
between the bearing cap and the crankshaft.  Next take the hand hole cover
off and reach in and grab the connecting rod.  Here you're looking for
obvious looseness at the big end bearing and at the wrist pin.

At this point I'd oil and check all the other moving bits and get ready to
try starting the engine.  Put some gas in the mixer bowl (there should be
a removable pipe plug to allow you to do that).  Open the needle valve
some, close the choke plate, and pull the flywheels smartly through
compression.  The owner of the engine probably has engine starting
experience and should be willing to help in this process.  With luck,
you'll be rewarded with the sweet sound of a running engine.  Don't be
surprised if this part of the "first time" experience gives you a woodie.
That's fairly common.  8-))

If it won't start you need to make a decision.  It may require significant
work (which may be why the owner hasn't been able to get it running
either), or it might be something as minor as a mis-timed engine or a mag
that needs charged, or a dirty set of ignitor points.

My recommendation is that if you encounter any major problems checking
the engine over or if you can't get it started, walk away.

There's a LOT of nice running engines out there and for a "first engine",
start with a runner.  There's lots of time to get and work on non-running
engines once you have some experience and can do a better job of
evaluating what you're getting into in terms of work needed and expense.

The last things to check on are things that affect the price.  Does it
have original paint and decals, does it have original IHC-marked grease
cups, does it have an oiler, muffler, is it on a cart (original is a plus)
or just a skid, and does it have the tag with serial number that will
allow you to date the engine.

Finally, be sure to post the tale of your experience to the list.  Folks
can learn from you and offer additional advice.

GOOD LUCK and have fun!!

See ya,  Arnie

Arnie Fero
Pittsburgh, PA
fero_ah at city-net.com

On Sun, 21 Jan 2007 mullt at att.net wrote:

> I'm about to "take the leap" and  buy my first engine. It looks like it
> is a 2.5hp IH Model M with a Model L magneto. From the pictures it looks
> complete. The owner says he has not run it but that it was running when
> he bought it. He is asking $500.
>
> Since I am new at this, I was wondering what I should look at to make
> sure the engine is in reasonable condition and that I can get it running
> without spending big $$$. Does the asking price seem reasonable?
>
> Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.
>
> Tom