[SEL] A Welding Question - CooperTB (Stover CT2)

[Chuck Balyeat]

 I just needed for the top of a light post, but it would not hold if
> it was something that was stressed.
> Andrew.
>
>>From Andrew at
> tech at andrew2.netpluscom.com
> engineering at andrew2.netpluscom.com
> b10730 at hotmail.com
>
> Visit the website at http://www.netpluscom.com/~10730/
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/andrew/
>
> On Sat, 18 Aug 2007, Dave Otto wrote:
>
>> Has any one used a MIG welder with steel wire to do non structural 
>> repairs
>> in cast; like cracks in a water jacket. I have heard that it works ok but 
>> I
>> have never seen it done.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>> Dave Otto
>> Boise, Idaho
>>
>> > -----Original Message-----
>> > From: sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com [mailto:sel-
>> > bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com] On Behalf Of Tony & Jackie
>> > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 10:54 AM
>> > To: The SEL email discussion list
>> > Subject: Re: [SEL] A Welding Question - CooperTB (Stover CT2)
>> >
>> > Rod,
>> > I just got done welding up the wet head on my 2
>> > 1/4 hp Economy.  I used my stick welder with
>> > nickel rod.  I ground the welding surface to a V
>> > and welded about 3/4" at a time letting it cool
>> > for 30-40 minutes between welds.  No preheating at all.
>> >
>> > My arc welder is AC/DC, so I used DC+ and it
>> > turned out to be a VERY nice weld.  I ground it
>> > down with my angle grinder and once I paint it,
>> > nobody will know it's even there.
>> >
>> > The most important thing is to get the surface
>> > CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!  Otherwise it will be a very
>> > porous weld.  Brake cleaner and a wire brush work
>> > very well.  Just make sure the brake cleaner is
>> > fully evaporated before you start to weld!
>> >
>> > --
>> > Tony Kimmell
>> >
>> >
>> > At 11:09 PM 8/17/2007, you wrote:
>> > >Hello SEL
>> > >
>> > >I would like to ask the SEL members a welding question.
>> > >
>> > >I recently bought a Cooper TB (Stover CT2) off eBay. I have just 
>> > >noticed
>> > >that the cylinder block RHS rear "foot" is cracked right through ­
>> > >great! On these engines the cylinder block is suspended on the 4 feet
>> > >which bolt to the cast iron base frame underneath ­ so there is no 
>> > >other
>> > >support for the engine except for the 4 feet which stick out the side 
>> > >of
>> > >the block at right angles.
>> > >
>> > >Is it possible to weld this foot back on without pre-heating up the
>> > >whole cylinder block as used to be recommended? And if so would the
>> > >welded foot be strong enough being ¼ of the total engine support?
>> > >I am thinking arc or TIG/MIG?
>> > >
>> > >Thanks for any advice.
>> > >
>> > >Rod Sutter
>> > >sutter6 at bigpond.net.au
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >_______________________________________________
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>> > >SEL at lists.stationary-engine.com
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>> >
>> >
>> >
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