[SEL] A Welding Question - CooperTB (Stover CT2)

[Andrew]

Hi Dave,
I'v seen wire welder used on cast steel, which doesn't do too bad, but in
my opinion I don't think it would work on cast iron. Best bet is to braze
it or use the nickel rod. My dad is a professional welder with 40+ years
experience and he never uses a wire welder on cast iron. Either braze it
or use the nickel rod. I have welded a cast iron pipe coupling to the end
of a steel pipe before without the right welding rod, and it is very hard
to do. I just needed for the top of a light post, but it would not hold if
it was something that was stressed.
Andrew.

>From Andrew at
tech at andrew2.netpluscom.com
engineering at andrew2.netpluscom.com
b10730 at hotmail.com

Visit the website at http://www.netpluscom.com/~10730/
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On Sat, 18 Aug 2007, Dave Otto wrote:

> Has any one used a MIG welder with steel wire to do non structural repairs
> in cast; like cracks in a water jacket. I have heard that it works ok but I
> have never seen it done.
>
> Dave
>
>
> Dave Otto
> Boise, Idaho
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com [mailto:sel-
> > bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com] On Behalf Of Tony & Jackie
> > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 10:54 AM
> > To: The SEL email discussion list
> > Subject: Re: [SEL] A Welding Question - CooperTB (Stover CT2)
> >
> > Rod,
> > I just got done welding up the wet head on my 2
> > 1/4 hp Economy.  I used my stick welder with
> > nickel rod.  I ground the welding surface to a V
> > and welded about 3/4" at a time letting it cool
> > for 30-40 minutes between welds.  No preheating at all.
> >
> > My arc welder is AC/DC, so I used DC+ and it
> > turned out to be a VERY nice weld.  I ground it
> > down with my angle grinder and once I paint it,
> > nobody will know it's even there.
> >
> > The most important thing is to get the surface
> > CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!  Otherwise it will be a very
> > porous weld.  Brake cleaner and a wire brush work
> > very well.  Just make sure the brake cleaner is
> > fully evaporated before you start to weld!
> >
> > --
> > Tony Kimmell
> >
> >
> > At 11:09 PM 8/17/2007, you wrote:
> > >Hello SEL
> > >
> > >I would like to ask the SEL members a welding question.
> > >
> > >I recently bought a Cooper TB (Stover CT2) off eBay. I have just noticed
> > >that the cylinder block RHS rear “foot” is cracked right through ­
> > >great! On these engines the cylinder block is suspended on the 4 feet
> > >which bolt to the cast iron base frame underneath ­ so there is no other
> > >support for the engine except for the 4 feet which stick out the side of
> > >the block at right angles.
> > >
> > >Is it possible to weld this foot back on without pre-heating up the
> > >whole cylinder block as used to be recommended? And if so would the
> > >welded foot be strong enough being ¼ of the total engine support?
> > >I am thinking arc or TIG/MIG?
> > >
> > >Thanks for any advice.
> > >
> > >Rod Sutter
> > >sutter6 at bigpond.net.au
> > >
> > >
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> >
> >
> >
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