[SEL] Re: Sheet metal work

[Orrin Iseminger]

Thanks to everyone for the helpful hints on my new project.  I was actually 
thinking that this sheet metal might be a good candidate for the 
electrolysis bath.  My tank should be large enough for most od the pieces.  
This is delicate work for me.  I'm a little more at home with the Huber 
steamer and unstyled tractors.

~~~~~~~~~

I've used electrolysis extensively and have concluded it is not a
do-all/end-all solution for rust removal.  I've had good results de-rusting
sheet metal that is only slightly rusty; however, if it is deeply pitted,
electrolysis is not likely to remove the rust at the bottom of the craters.


I always start every de-rusting job with electrolysis.  If it works, fine.
But, in those cases where it cannot finish the job, I have to reach down
into my bag of tricks and try something else.  

I tried for most of a summer to get the pits out of an old Ford running
board, via electrolysis. It just wouldn't come out of the pits.  I finally
gave up and just slapped a coat of paint on it.  After all, nobody would
ever see it because it got covered with a rubber tread.  

I'd like to emphasize what someone else said about abrasive blasting making
sheet metal look like ocean waves.   Once-upon-a-time I blasted the visor
off the same old Ford.  I'd heard all about its causing warping of sheet
metal, so I took all the precautions I knew of.  Because I was so careful, I
didn't think it would warp; after all, the piece was only six inches wide,
or so.  (BTW, I tried electrolysis, first.)  

After all the rust was gone it looked fantastic!  "Good job," said I.  It
wasn't until I started sanding the prime coat that I discovered the piece
was about as flat as a potato chip.  Not only did I still have to get out
the Bondo, I had to deal with a dislocated shoulder caused by all that
back-patting I gave myself.  

Regards,

Orrin