[SEL] Fairbanks Morse ZD Cracked Block - Best Way to Repair

[Mike Royster]

A trick I have had great success with is to place the regular tubes of JB
Weld on a pie pan, and put it in the oven on low for about 5 minutes.  Then
once you mix them they are already warm and it speeds up the curing process.
Of course, I also cooked a 6hp Sta-Rite head in the oven with great success,
and we never did figure out that strange smell!!!!

MR
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <fero_ah at city-net.com>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2005 11:01 AM
Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbanks Morse ZD Cracked Block - Best Way to Repair


> Hi Folks,
>
> Let me add a couple of thoughts to Tommy's JB Weld comments.  I've also
had
> great success with doing water jacket crack repairs using JB Weld.
>
> Tommy's observation on the fluidity of JB Weld can be a blessing or a
curse
> depending on the nature and geometry of the crack / hole that you're
trying to
> repair.
>
> The normal version of JB Weld (two-part in tubes) is actually fairly
fluid, even
> at room temperature.   That means you can get penetration into the crack
(a
> good thing) but it can also run out of the crack and down the block (not a
good
> thing).  http://jbweld.net/products/jbweld.php
>
> For some geometries where the crack is vertical (and you can't lay the
block
> over) you might want to consider JB Stik.  Since you knead this stuff, you
can
> shape it and press it into place to add lots of options to the repair
process.
> http://jbweld.net/products/jbstik.php
>
> Finally, be aware of JB Kwik http://jbweld.net/products/jbkwik.php.  No
engine
> man's toolbox should be without this product for rally field repairs.  It
can
> make the difference between having a stationary engine or a runner for the
> weekend!
>
> See ya,  Arnie
>
> Arnie Fero
> Pittsburgh, PA
> fero_ah at city-net.com
>
> Quoting Judge Tommy Turner <lcjudge at scrtc.com>:
>
> > JB works well and I've used it numerous times and can't remember not
> > having a good result.  Here's a few tips though to make sure others have
> > success also.  One is to make sure that the surface where the JB is to
> > be applied is free of dirt, loose paint, etc.  I usually take a die
> > grinder and try to "V" the crack.  It doesn't have to be wide or deep,
> > maybe 1/8 inch wide and a total of 1/16 to 3/32.  Then, after I vee it
> > out, I take some carb cleaner and spray the crack real well.  This will
> > help remove oil and grease that may be down in the crack.  Finally, I
> > apply a little heat.  Not a great deal, but hot enough that you can't
> > hold your finger on it or that its just hot enough that if you spit on
> > it, it would sizzle.  I've even repaired some (the 4 HP Columbus I've
> > got for one) with original paint and haven't burned it off.  You've got
> > to be patient.  The heat will do three things, one it will further
> > ensure that grease, oil, etc that may be in the crack will be driven
> > out.  Two, the heat will cause the crack to open a bit (maybe only a few
> > thousandths or two but that will be enough for the third thing it
> > does).  Three, heat will cause the JB to run like water.  When you apply
> > it to the heated crack, it will run in the crack to ensure you have a
> > good seal.  As I say, I've done this several times and its never failed
> > to seal the crack.  I even used this once on a small internal cylinder
> > crack that was around the rear of a cylinder.  I ran the engine for 3
> > years at shows after the repair and it never leaked.
>
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