[SEL] Replacing Babbitt in M/B caps

[Richard Strobel]

Thanks Tom..ya done good!  I think my problems in the past have been not 
enuf preheat so the babbitt flows to the furthest corner or I don't have the 
babbitt hot enuf...kinda paranoid on that one...another good reason to use 
the TG&P I guess.

   The crank straightener did mention that he trued up the cs main bearing 
surface as it was slighly oblong..so I might be doing bottom bearing 
babbitt's also..we'll see when I get the cs back this weekend.


As always..'preciate the comeback.

One of these days I'll send an old fan to ya.

RickinMt.



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Germoamer at aol.com>
To: <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [SEL] Replacing Babbitt in M/B caps


> In a message dated 6/20/2005 9:55:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com writes:
>
> << Are you pouring side thrust bearings at the same time? >>
>
>
> Rick,
>
> What I did was to make spacer shims out of head gasket material that went
> tight against the crank shaft and held in place with the bearing cap 
> bolts, but
> without the caps in place.  Use babbitrite, etc., to form a dam and funnel 
> to
> pour the bottom mains.  Exit hole on the other side of course.  With crank
> shimmed off floor in proper location, pour bottoms. Clean up bottom mains 
> after
> pouring, put back in gasket shims and top caps to keep top hot babbit from
> ruining the bottoms as Curt said, Dam everything accordingly and pour top 
> mains.
> Put a thin wall tubing down the grease hole and dam on underside to keep 
> the
> babbit out of threads.  Pour thru tubing clean up, install regular shims, 
> or use
> the head gasket shim.  Works for me.
>
> Like a fellow told me once, what do you have to loose, but remelt the 
> babbit
> and try again!
>
> Tom Schmutz
> Concord, Va. USA
> Germoamer at aol.com
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