[SEL] Cooling for Fairbanks needed.

[Paul Russell]

FWIW
One BTU=heat to raise one pound of water 1°.
8.6 lbs per gal. (I think.)
To change state, liquid to steam with both at 212° takes 960 BTU per lb. or
there-abouts.


Paul Russell
Riga, Michigan
hit_n_miss at tc3net.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Curt" <curt at imc-group.com>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 3:57 PM
Subject: Re: [SEL] Cooling for Fairbanks needed.


Tom, Peter,
Might be that latent heat operating mode is appropriate. I called one of
our old club members who has the one copy of the original literature in
our club and he recalls the proper operating temperature as about 210°F.
I am planning on going to his place on Saturday to read the literature
and confirm this. If the water is leaving the engine near the boiling
point we can certainly get a LOT of cooling from evaporation as we
trickle it over a screen or similar device. Rob has suggested an
elevated wood tank and I think that would be a neat looking addition to
our engine building. A simple cone spray nozzle returning the hot water
to the tank would generate a substantial amount of cooling.
I've located a belt driven brass pump for circulating the water too.
Keep the ideas coming.
Curt

mullt at att.net wrote:

>With all due respect, I don't think the latent heat of vaporization is the
appropriate property to consider.
>
>The latent heat would only be applicable if the water changes phase (from
water to steam or vapor). Most water cooling systems recirculate the cooling
medium as water.
>
>The issue for the cooler is whether it is a closed system like an
automobile radiator or an open system like a cooling tower. If it is a
closed system, all of the cooling would be sensible heat. If it is an open
system, there would be some evaporative cooling but not equal to the latent
heat of the water. If it is an open system, you need to look at the
temperature of the water leaving the engine and the wet bulb temperature of
the ambient air.
>
>Tom in St. Louis
> -------------- Original message ----------------------
>From: Listerdiesel <listerdiesel at gmail.com>
>
>
>>On 7/8/05, Curt <curt at imc-group.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Guys,
>>>At our Cotton Ginning Days meeting last night we discussed several
>>>options for cooling our 37 1/2HP Fairbanks semi-diesel used to drive our
>>>cotton gin. At the bottom of this link is a picture of the engine:
>>><http://www.oldengine.org/members/gamtra/cottongin.htm>
>>>
>>>Since we began using the engine we have just run city water thru it and
>>>dumped the water in a ditch nearby. After running for 3 days at our
>>>annual show this creates a big mud hole of a mess at one of the
>>>entrances to a field folks display engines in.
>>>
>>>One of the ideas floated was to acquire a period correct "cooler" to
>>>recirculate water to the engine. So I am soliciting for suggestions on
>>>what such a device would be and look like. Maybe someone even has one we
>>>can use. What would a cooler be? A wooden cooling tower with slats that
>>>trickle the water collected in a tank at the bottom? ORA plain wooden
>>>tank like this?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>><http://www.oldengine.org/members/holland/images/Illinois%20Oil%20Lease/09
.jpg>
>>
>>
>>> OR Something with a fan that creates updraft like you see in industry?
>>>
>>>We flow about 3 gallon per minute thru our engine. We really don't use
>>>the full HP of the engine and I would estimate we use 1/2 the HP at
>>>most. If anyone has suggestions on what would be the best type of period
>>>correct cooler, and even better where we can get one, we'd sure like to
>>>hear from you.
>>>Curt Holland
>>>Gastonia, NC
>>>Cotton Ginning Days Show Oct 14, 15, and 16th.
>>>
>>>P.S. I have estimated a cooling load of 3.3 tons (41000 BTU/hr) for the
>>>cooler, so this will be a small unit.
>>>
>>>
>>That's a bit big for a screen cooling setup, and a tank cooling system
>>would probably be a bit heavy, but for demo use I would certainly look
>>at a screen cooler, and you would need a pump to circulate the water,
>>unless you used exhaust pressure to do it.
>>
>>Look at the figures for the latent heat of evaporation of water, you'd
>>be surprised how little you would need to get the heat out of the
>>engine.
>>
>>Peter
>>-- 
>>Peter A Forbes
>>Email: listerdiesel at gmail.com
>>Web: www.oldengine.org/members/diesel
>>
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>>
>>
>
>
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