[SEL] Kwik-Poly

[Curt]

Arnie, Dave, Rob,
For what it is worth each tank I have QP'd I have gotten the solids out 
and then add a 1/2 cup of lacquer thinner. Cover the openings with my 
hands and slosh the stuff all around. On old tanks this cuts the 
gasoline deposits and varnish. On new tanks this removes the rolling 
mill oils and oils/dirt that got on the tank when it was being made.
I'll wash additional times until the lacquer thinner comes out clean. 
Then I put an air hose in the tank and set the regulator on about 3-5 
psi and blow a slow stream of compressed air in the tank evaporating any 
of the lacquer thinner away.
I'll mix up the correct amount of QP and roll it around in the tank 
until it sets. I do NOT pour the excess off. You'd mixed it you might as 
well use it. If the tank was rusty and thin I'll make sure the heaviest 
amount of QP is on he bottom where the rust was. I do no multi coats.
So far I have had NO failures with QP using this process.
Curt Holland
Gastonia, NC
P.S. True story.....muriatic and galvanized together is an unpleasant 
reaction. Lot of heat and wicked yellow fumes that will rip your lungs 
out. In my teenage years I used to get gal. sheet metal from the local 
HVAC place and etch the gal. off and use the metal to patch rusty car 
fenders. I killed a whole section of mom's prized hedges with those 
yellow vapors! She was PISSED!

Dave Rotigel wrote:

> Hi Arnie and Rob,
>         I spoke with Dale Portrell moments ago and asked him what he 
> recommends for 'etching" Kwik-Poly prior to re coating it. (Dale is 
> the guy who is now manufacturing the stuff. He is at 314.344.8881.) 
> Dale says that they have not really found anything that does a good 
> job of scratching the surface of Kwik-Poly, but that plastic blasting 
> beads might be worth a try--if you can fine them. Put them in the tank 
> and shake the hell out of it! He recommends using muriatic (sp?) acid 
> (50/50 w/water) prior to using K-P in a gasoline tank--even an old 
> rusty one. (Remember "do what you otter, add acid to water!) He thinks 
> that a stronger solution of the acid might etch the K-P itself, but 
> didn't know for sure. I'll try that after my K-P arrives from Dale and 
> (if I can remember) let the List know what works/doesn't work.
>         Dave
>
> At 12:40 PM 12/5/2005, you wrote:
>
>> Hi Rob,
>>
>> The only bad experience I've had with Kwic-Poly was on a new tank 
>> that was
>> leaking when I first put gas into it.  This was at Coolspring and all I
>> did was drain the gas out, mix up a batch of KP and pour it in.  It held
>> nicely for most of the season, then began coming off.  Ever try and 
>> remove
>> loose KP through a 3/4" filler neck?  Not fun!
>>
>> As I had borrowed the KP (of indeterminate age), I ordered a new batch
>> from either Charlie Bryant or Joe Kelley.  This time I used some
>> dishwashing detergent to thoroughly clean the inside of the tank and I
>> made sure it was dry inside.  Then did the KP.  That job has held
>> beautifully for 4 or 5 years now.  So that was KP over (some still
>> adhering) KP.  No special treatment other than a really good cleaning.
>>
>> I've done other tanks with full success; just making sure that they were
>> clean before adding the KP.
>>
>> See ya,  Arnie
>>
>> Arnie Fero
>> Pittsburgh, PA
>> fero_ah at city-net.com
>>
>> On Sun, 4 Dec 2005, Rob Skinner wrote:
>>
>> > Thanks for the advice.  I suspect I've not run into trouble because 
>> I do the
>> > second coat within a few minutes of the first setting up, when it's 
>> still soft.
>> > Suppose I wanted to do a second coat on a tank that had previously 
>> been KP'ed
>> > and used for a few years.  Is there a procedure for that?
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