[SEL] Question for Rowlands

[Curt]

Rick S.,
I'd like to add my experience with the urethanes. When I was making the 
Stickney patterns I decided to use the urethane product to make the 
corebox for the fuel site gage. I made the wooden male part with all the 
correct drafts and slicked it up smooth as glass with primer surfacer 
and lots of sanding.
Per the urethanes instructions I put on 3 coats of carnoba wax and 
sprayed the special release agent on the part too.
Then I loaded the part in the core box and poured the 2 part urethane 
in. It set up just as it was supposed too.
However, getting the male part back out proved a hell of a challenge! I 
screwed in lags and used a slide hammer on it in several places. No go. 
Eventually I had to break the wood male form out of the urethane. It 
fought me the entire way and when I was done I had nothing but a pile of 
splinters on the floor. Thank goodness the resulting female core box 
turned out perfect with no blemishes so it all worked out.

Long story I know, but that is my experience with urethane. This was a 
super slick finish and it still didn't release.

Here is a belt tensioner pattern and follow board for the IHC Famous 
sawrig. Whip up a pattern of your belt tensioner in wood and you'll be 
able to make all the new ones you and your buddies want. It's really not 
bad one you get into it. Use something soft like poplar or mahogany and 
you'll have an easy job.
http://www.oldengine.org/members/holland/images/Patterns/8Famous/Fork2.htm

Curt Holland
Gastonia, NC


Rick Rowlands wrote:

> Rick,
>
> I suppose that you could use urethane, make a mold then use it to make 
> an exact replica of the part out of urethane and send me that 
> replica.  However that stuff is quite expensive and some pieces aren't 
> easy to replicate in that way.
>
> One other thing to consider is that I would be working from a second 
> generation.  Ever make a photocopy of a photocopy?  As you copy copies 
> the quality of the image deteriorates.  Same principle applies to 
> castings.  The best quality casting will always be the one made from a 
> well built pattern. Now in many cases I can make castings from 
> castings but those pieces are always a bit inferior in quality from 
> the original. The further away I get from the pattern the worse the 
> quality is going to be.
>
> I've never lost a customer's part and I've never returned the parts in 
> worse condition than they were sent to me.  If you send more pieces 
> and pack them with as much care as that first group of castings and 
> ask for delivery confirmation we won't have any problems.
>
> Rick Rowlands
> Tod Engine Works
> Makers of Quality iron, steel, ductile iron
> and nonferrous castings
> 2261 Hubbard Road
> Youngstown, OH  44505
> 330-728-2799
> www.todengine.org/engineworks.html
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard Strobel" 
> <Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com>
> To: "sel" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 10:43 AM
> Subject: [SEL] Question for Rowlands
>
>
>>  G'day all..little chilly here;
>>
>>  Thot I'd post this to the SEL and maybe get more ideas.
>>
>>  Off and on I get requests from someone looking for a casting.  
>> Lately it's a belt tensioner for a Galloway Sawing Outfit.  Now I'm 
>> more than willing to remove this and send it to Rowlands so he can 
>> use it for a pattern/mold..whatever.  But isn't there an easier way???
>>
>>  Could I make a mold out of say expanding type foam insulation and 
>> send it to you Rick???
>>
>>
>>  Seems like this would be a good idea and terrifically reduce the 
>> shipping costs plus I'd keep my iron.
>>
>>
>>  Any comments??
>>
>>  RickinMt. _______________________________________________
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>> SEL at lists.stationary-engine.com
>> http://www.stationary-engine.com/mailman/listinfo/sel 
>
>
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