[SEL] RE: Pitted shaft & Babbitt bearings

Tod Engine todengine at zoominternet.net
Fri Apr 22 14:22:21 PDT 2005


DOM Drawn over mandrel.  A process to make better dimensional tolerances in 
the pipe.  At least I think thats what it does.

Rick


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Andy Glines" <andyglines at hotmail.com>
To: <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Friday, April 22, 2005 2:43 PM
Subject: [SEL] RE: Pitted shaft & Babbitt bearings


> Curt, I have yet to think that one of your ideas is dumb so I have no 
> intention of deleting this.  I never really thought of replacing the 
> shaft.  A 3" (checked last night) shaft about 54" long complete with 
> keyways, machined bearing surfaces, threaded holes.... could get a little 
> $$$ though. This shaft is serviceable just needs to be a little slicker. 
> The shim stock on the O.D. idea is pretty creative and I'm going to keep 
> that one in my bag of tricks.  Where do I get stainless shimstock?  I've 
> never seen beer sold in a stainless can??  The dummy shaft solution is 
> looking more & more attractive all of the time.  I'm going to have to eat 
> my words about the castings being easily removable.  I should know better 
> than to use the word "easy" when refering to a 100 year old machine.  I'm 
> not familiar with "DOM" tubing.  What does DOM mean?
>
>>   25. Re: RE: Pitted shaft & Babbitt bearings
>>Message: 25
>>Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2005 15:41:33 -0400
>>From: Curt <curt at imc-group.com>
>>Subject: Re: [SEL] RE: Pitted shaft & Babbitt bearings
>>To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>>Message-ID: <426801ED.5090600 at imc-group.com>
>>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>>OK Andy if you think this is a really dumb idea then just delete it.
>>I gather the reason you've decided to not replace the short jackshaft is
>>cost??? Since you are concerned about filling in the pits (I'd blast and
>>use titanium Devcon) and have learned that JB won't take the pre-heat
>>for babbitt pouring. How about this.
>>
>>Before filling the pits, carefully cut and wrap the shaft with a piece
>>of .003 or .004 thick stainless shim. Have it extend and inch or more
>>beyond the bushing area and use a pair of hose clamps to hold it in
>>place. You might have to use thinner material and do a couple of wraps
>>to get it to lay flat. The idea is that you will have a super slick
>>surface to pour against and this will also build in the proper running
>>clearance.
>>
>>Once you've poured, then you can remove the shaft and stainless shim
>>stock, sand blast the pits in the bushing portion of the shaft and use
>>the titanium Devcon. You may have to enlist the help of a friend with a
>>lathe to finish the Devcon. It is damned tough stuff. A file isn't real
>>effective!
>>
>>I have no experience using stainless as a babbitt form and only toss it
>>out there as a possibility.
>>Curt Holland
>>Gastonia, NC
>>P.S. Could you use a piece of thin wall 3 1/2" DOM tubing as a dummy
>>shaft for pouring? That should be cheap enough.....
>>
>>
>>Andy Glines wrote:
>>
>> > As usual, I get some great ideas when consulting ATIS lists for
>> > ideas.  There have been several good ideas given.  I'm afraid that
>> > leaving the pitts alone simply won't work.  The pitted area is
>> > actually a strip about 1.5" wide for the length of the bearing surface
>> > on both ends of the shaft.  I'm thinkg that this is where rain water
>> > got in through the oil troughs and sat on the shaft.  Besides the
>> > rusted strip the shaft is pretty smooth.  Leaving this area alone will
>> > result in a big gap in the bearing surface that I think will cut the
>> > bearing quickly.  When I first posed this question I thought that the
>> > bearing castings were permanently attached to the boiler.  Further
>> > investigation shows that they can easily be taken off where I can put
>> > them on a table.  Being able to take them off means that the dummy
>> > shaft might work well.  Of course I've gotten some links to higher
>> > temp fillers.  Arnie asked what size the shaft is... 3.25" or 3.5"
>> > about 54" long.  I had already considered his idea that a shaft of
>> > sufficient size could act as a heat sink and therefore the filler
>> > would only see the extreme heat for a short time.  I'm pretty sure
>> > that this shaft is big enough.  As always you folks have give me food
>> > for thought.  Thank you!
>> > BTW The shaft in question is the countershaft that drives the wheels
>> > on my Huber steamer.
>> >
>
>
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