[SEL] OT-OT- air lines in shop?

[Tim Christoff]

Has anyone ever used PEX pipe?  I was thinking of trying that out, it works better than copper for water and will go 200psi plus it is super inexpensive.

Tim Christoff

-----Original Message-----
>From: "P. Johns" <enginepaul at gmail.com>
>Sent: Oct 30, 2010 10:28 AM
>To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>Subject: Re: [SEL] OT-OT- air lines in shop?
>
>A couple of quick notes:
>
>The wall thickness of the copper won't matter, L has a thicker wall than M.
>That makes for a minor difference in flow quantity)
>
>Copper "pipe" is called that by the plumbing industry, it is 'tubing'
>according to the manufacturer. When you by compression fittings for 'pipe',
>the 1/2" pipe uses 5/8 fittings, the 3/4 uses 7/8. Pipe is a nominal size,
>tubing is actual outside dimension. So you get solder fittings in pipe
>sizes, compression fittings in tube sizes.
>
>1/2 pipe (of any type) will move a lot of air, probably enough for any air
>tool commonly used; remember it is under high pressure - usually two times
>or more than normal water pressure. I have used 1/2 galvanized - years ago -
>and had plenty of volume for an auto shop; copper will deliver more.
>
>I have use both iron and copper for shop lines, but that was before this
>modern poly plastic stuff was availabe and I don't see why something like
>Pex wouldn't work EXCEPT for oil in the line at, or near, the
>compressor.That may be dealt with by a sediment, or moisture trap. You
>shouldn''t need a log drip leg, as the length won't make what falls into it
>(moisture) any heavier. I always used a needle valve at the bottom of the
>leg and sometimes left it open slightly while running.
>
>I have seen plastic pipe used, but I'd be afraid of it shattering from some
>accident. I don't think (but don't know for sure) that it will burst from
>any reasonable pressure. I just don't like the chance of physical damage
>from some accident. Others would be better informed as far as safety goes -
>and inconvenience as was mentioned.
>
>Perhaps, in you situation, you could leave the compressor with copper (or
>galvanized) and then run cheaper and easier to use plastic along the
>ceiling, then come down with copper again.
>
>Slope the overhead downward, toward the end of the run, so it will drain
>moisture easily; 1/8" to 1/4" per foot should work fine.
>
>That's all I can think of for now - if there are any questions, just ask.
>
>Paul in California
>
>PS: My training in Plumbing Engineering was back when we uased pencils and
>paper for calculations, so I never paid much attention to plastic pipe.
>PPS: Nice shop
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Tim Christoff