[SEL] TWO THREADS

[bill at antique-engines.com]

Gee, that knowledge looks good from here!


> Bill:
>
> First, just a little reminder to not use all capital letters.  No biggie
> but it's too much like shouting and hurts our eyes.
>
> Anyway, per the valve timing, I assume you are talking about a low speed
> flywheel engine with atmospheric ("automatic" or "suction") intake valve.
> If that's the case, the exhaust should open around 40 degrees before
> bottom dead center and close just a little past top dead center.  I find
> that most engines like to have the exhaust just closed just a few degrees
> past TDC.  A little fiddling with that may optomize performance a little.
>
> As far as boiling of a hopper cooled engine is concerned, if it is
> throttle governed, it will eventually come to a boil even at no load, no
> matter how the ignition is timed.  The heat is dissipated via the boiling
> process, not by radiation so boiling is the normal running temperature.
> If the engine is hit and miss and is running right and not pulling a load,
> it may never reach boiling.
>
> As far as magnet charging is concerned, you need a very strong field in
> order to properly charge any truly magnetic material.  That means LOTS of
> ampere-turns.  The charging field needs to be several times stronger than
> the magnetized strength of the material being charged to overcome
> hysteresis in the individual poles and turn them far enough in the same
> direction that they stay there.  Having said that, I've just exhausted my
> knowledge of magnet charging and defer to the superior knowledge of
> others.   :-)
>
> Take care - Elden
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand
>
>
> Take care - Elden
> http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand
>