[SEL] Lister 5-1 progress/ it's first show

Alan rustaholic777 at yahoo.com
Fri Nov 27 18:09:26 PST 2009


Yup,
All of these suggestions are about pressurized systems which is not what Jerry has.
Jerry,, How many holes have you found?
Got a solder gun or an LP torch and a roll of solder?
 
Alan in Michigan

--- On Fri, 11/27/09, Elden DuRand <edurand at mchsi.com> wrote:


From: Elden DuRand <edurand at mchsi.com>
Subject: Re: [SEL] Lister 5-1 progress/ it's first show
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Date: Friday, November 27, 2009, 7:57 PM


Jerry:

I've used Barrs Leaks several times with good results.  On a couple of cars, I had heater core leaks and one application of Barrs stopped the leaks permanently (several years and no recurrances).

On my American LaFrance racer, I had the radiator cleaned at a radiator shop.  BIG mistake!  They hot tanked it and it leaked so badly, they wouldn't fix it.  The bottom tank had most of the leaks but the "honeycomb" core also had some.

The shop sent me home with the leaky radiator and a jar of what they called "boiler sealer".  The stuff looked like metal powder and was probably composed of a mixture of bismuth and other low melting point metals.  Their instructions were to put the radiator back on and cover the radiator so the engine would heat-up.  Use a wash tub to collect the leakage so it can be poured back in.

Start the engine and add water until the radiator was full.  After some heat was built-up and after dumping back the leaked water, add the entire contents of the jar (about a liter, I think I remember).

For a while, nothing happened except that the water leaking out of the radiator was real pretty with the silvery metal in it.  It took a few refillings (using a tin can from the wash tub) but, after a while, as the engine got to the boiling point, the leaking slowed and finally stopped.

They said to just leave the stuff in the radiator and I did.  No more leaks - ever.

A few years later, I did drain the radiator and the water was clear.  I dunno where the sealer went but I'm glad it worked.

Take care - Elden
http://www.oldengine.org/members/durand 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com
> [mailto:sel-bounces at lists.stationary-engine.com]On
>  Behalf Of Jerry Evans
> Sent: Friday, November 27, 2009 03:42 PM
> To: stationary-engine at oldengine.org; 
> sel at lists.stationary-engine.com
> Subject: [SEL] Lister 5-1 progress/ it's first show
> 
..................snippety-snip........................
> 
>          "Barrs Leaks" contains chunks of 
> compressed cork in a solution of 
> soluble oil and it appears that the idea is that 
> once introduced into the 
> radiator these chunks of cork get stuck in the 
> holes and, as the soluble 
> oil is dispersed, the cork "bits" absorb water 
> and swell to close the holes 
> (leaks).
> 
>          To my inexperienced brain it would 
> appear as though this would 
> work quite well (as a temporary fix) in a motor 
> car where there is a water 
> pump forcing the water (and the "chunks" of cork) 
> to circulate . A thermo 
> syphon system is quite different - no force 
> applied. To my thinking, this 
> would result in the chunks of cork (the sealing 
> medium) to just float on 
> top of the water in the top radiator reservoir 
> and never reach the leaks 
> lower down - (hot water rises - cold water falls et.al.)
> 
> Keep the revs up (or down)
> Jerry Evans
> Near Johannesburg in Sunny South Africa.
> Etched Brass Engine Plates made to order:
> <www.oldengine.org/members/evans/plates/index.htm


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