[SEL] Tank Cooled Engine - Pipe Fitting Suggestions Needed

[Steve Royster]

Hello Arnie, I just finished one on the McVickers and I used floor flanges. 
For the bottom (flat) drain I just drilled the tank and put two back to back 
with EPDM (rubber roofing) gaskets and brass screws, then screwed in the 
drain.  For the curved sides of the tank I ground the radius  of the tank 
into the floor  flange for the exterior and ran the tap as far into it as it 
would go. Then on the inside I sawed the threaded part off the flange to use 
as a nut and ground the inside radius on what was left to use as a backing 
plate. I sawed the tank with a metal cuting hole saw. I bolted them together 
again with EPDM gaskets and brass screws. Then ran my pipe through the two 
pieces and tightened it with the "nut". It  was fairly quick and doesn't 
leak and  used what was laying around the shop. Steve


>From: fero_ah at city-net.com
>Reply-To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>To: Stationary Engine List <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>,        
>Old_Engine <stationary-engine at oldengine.org>
>Subject: [SEL] Tank Cooled Engine - Pipe Fitting Suggestions Needed
>Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2007 11:25:30 -0400
>
>Hi Folks,
>
>I'm working on a 4 hp tank-cooled Lister L.  The tank that I'm starting 
>with is
>an ordinary 30-gallon drum so I need to put three opening in the sides.  
>One
>each for inlet and outlet pipe nipples and one near the bottom for a
>faucet-type drain.
>
>Before I just started hacking away, I figgered I'd tap the collective 
>experience
>of the lists.  What have you done that worked well?  What should I avoid?  
>Any
>suggestions would be appreciated.  Thanks.
>
>See ya,  Arnie
>
>Arnie Fero
>Pittsburgh, PA
>fero_ah at city-net.com
>
>
>
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