[SEL] A Welding Question - CooperTB (Stover CT2)

[Tony & Jackie]

Rod,
I just got done welding up the wet head on my 2 
1/4 hp Economy.  I used my stick welder with 
nickel rod.  I ground the welding surface to a V 
and welded about 3/4" at a time letting it cool 
for 30-40 minutes between welds.  No preheating at all.

My arc welder is AC/DC, so I used DC+ and it 
turned out to be a VERY nice weld.  I ground it 
down with my angle grinder and once I paint it, 
nobody will know it's even there.

The most important thing is to get the surface 
CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN!  Otherwise it will be a very 
porous weld.  Brake cleaner and a wire brush work 
very well.  Just make sure the brake cleaner is 
fully evaporated before you start to weld!

--
Tony Kimmell


At 11:09 PM 8/17/2007, you wrote:
>Hello SEL
>
>I would like to ask the SEL members a welding question.
>
>I recently bought a Cooper TB (Stover CT2) off eBay. I have just noticed
>that the cylinder block RHS rear “foot” is cracked right through ­
>great! On these engines the cylinder block is suspended on the 4 feet
>which bolt to the cast iron base frame underneath ­ so there is no other
>support for the engine except for the 4 feet which stick out the side of
>the block at right angles.
>
>Is it possible to weld this foot back on without pre-heating up the
>whole cylinder block as used to be recommended? And if so would the
>welded foot be strong enough being ¼ of the total engine support?
>I am thinking arc or TIG/MIG?
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Rod Sutter
>sutter6 at bigpond.net.au
>
>
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