[SEL] A Welding Question - CooperTB (Stover CT2)

[john palmer]

Hi Rob, for this job I would ark weld this with a good rod for cast. Vee out 
the crack and weld a little at a time and preen the weld with your chipping 
hammer as soon as you take the rod away. Just do a stitch at a time so that 
you dont get things too hot. You have to be patient walk away from it and do 
something else till it has cooled. Probably best to stitch from either end 
at a time.This has worked for me most times over the years.  John


>From: "sutter" <sutter6 at bigpond.net.au>
>Reply-To: The SEL email discussion list <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>To: <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>Subject: [SEL] A Welding Question - CooperTB (Stover CT2)
>Date: Sat, 18 Aug 2007 14:09:59 +1000
>
>Hello SEL
>
>I would like to ask the SEL members a welding question.
>
>I recently bought a Cooper TB (Stover CT2) off eBay. I have just noticed
>that the cylinder block RHS rear “foot” is cracked right through –
>great! On these engines the cylinder block is suspended on the 4 feet
>which bolt to the cast iron base frame underneath – so there is no other
>support for the engine except for the 4 feet which stick out the side of
>the block at right angles.
>
>Is it possible to weld this foot back on without pre-heating up the
>whole cylinder block as used to be recommended? And if so would the
>welded foot be strong enough being ¼ of the total engine support?
>I am thinking arc or TIG/MIG?
>
>Thanks for any advice.
>
>Rod Sutter
>sutter6 at bigpond.net.au
>
>
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