Fw: [SEL] WALLA! Stover Gib Key Out - Thanks to All

[Paul Maples]

Stupid typo on my part, in the last sentence it should say. Also the metal, 
not meat, has to be really clean. I bet I get some responses from this typo 
error, ha, ha.

Paul

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Paul Maples" <paulmaples at sbcglobal.net>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [SEL] WALLA! Stover Gib Key Out - Thanks to All


> Thanks Arnie, I appreciate you sharing this with me. I will file this away 
> in my files as I am sure I will need it again in the future.
>
> The Hot Glue Dam works great but just remember to pre-heat the cold steel 
> and to also run a bead all the way around the shaft under the key to keep 
> the oil from wicking out the front, this way it has to go all the way 
> through the flywheel to get out. Also the meat has to be really clean.
>
> Take Care Arnie,
>
> Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Arnie Fero" <fero_ah at city-net.com>
> To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 9:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [SEL] WALLA! Stover Gib Key Out - Thanks to All
>
>
>> Hi Paul (and others),
>>
>> When I was looking into gib key removal techniques I had gotten some good
>> recommendations from Roland Craven in England.  He suggested using two
>> tapered wedges with the tapers together.  The wedges are secured (as Dave
>> Croft had suggested) using a clamp (with a V-block under the shaft) to
>> keep the wedges from jumping out.  You then use a BFH in each hand and
>> strike the two wedges together.  The advantage of the method is that you
>> apply a lot of force very smoothly and square to the key rather than at 
>> an
>> angle as the case would be with a single wedge or drift.
>>
>> I do like the idea of the Kroil dam.
>
>
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