[SEL] powdercoating engine parts? On Topic

[Steve W.]

Your neighbor is partly correct. Usually you have to get it a bit warmer
than the cure temp to get it to reflow. I used to enjoy doing powder
demos when client companies would want something different. We did candy
colors, metallic, base clear types, even did things with swirled
powders. The current item coming out is a process to put a wood like
finish on using powder, when finished the part looks like it is made of
wood, even has graining. We did some flame spraying and nylon coating as
well. Nylon is fun to do. It cures at about 650 degrees. You need to use
a flow primer on the part then preheat the part and coat it while hot,
then bake it until it flows out then cool it quick.  Since we only did
small parts we used a batch oven. I used to get to play with that stuff.
Still have the scar from a part falling onto my arm when a rack failed.

Steve Williams
Near Cooperstown, New York


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Curt" <curt at imc-group.com>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: [SEL] powdercoating engine parts? On Topic


> Bill,
> I've powder coated flat belt pulleys and cart wheels on several
engines.
> I have a neighbor in the light pole business so I get the "good
neighbor
> discount" (free). Powder coat is some tough stuff. It is a bear to
blast
> back off! So if you want an excellent, tough finish go for it.
> Aside from exhaust manifolds, if you have old engine parts approaching
> 400°F you got bigger problems than worrying about charred powdercoat!
> My neighbor tells me that if the powdercoat get scuffed all you have
to
> do is reheat that part to the flow temperature and the finish is
> restored to the original high gloss. That's a neat feature.
> Curt Holland
> Gastonia, NC
>
> bill at antique-engines.com wrote:
>
> >WOW, Steve - that is something I guess I'd not given thought to - the
heat.
> >DUH. Man, I hate it when I miss something so obvious.
> >
> >OK, then perhaps on parts that won't get hot (Dave would say a Maytag
at
> >this point since he'd say an engine has to run to get hot...........)
> >
> >Could be good on the trucks - wheels, axles, supports, etc. Or items
not
> >exposed to heat close to 400 degrees or more then.
> >Yeah, 400 is what the oven is supposed to be set for with what I
have,
> >powders from eastwood.
> >
> >Bill
> >
> >
> >
>
> _______________________________________________
> SEL mailing list
> SEL at lists.stationary-engine.com
> http://www.stationary-engine.com/mailman/listinfo/sel
>