[SEL] Calling all Red-Kote User's - Need Advice
Curt
curt at imc-group.com
Thu Dec 14 12:09:32 PST 2006
Paul,
I found the 2nd email and looked at the photos. Ohh that is FUBAR'd
isn't it! If you can't blast it consider the sulfuric acid cleaning like
I mentioned on the Alamo gas tank.
The Quik Poly is a 2 part epoxy the consistency of water. Seal the leaks
from the outside with tape, mix a 1/2 cup of it up and pour it in. Roll
it around, distributing the epoxy around evenly until it sets up in
about 1 minute.
You could put it over the rust, but personally I like to clean stuff
first. Blasting is the best choice in my opinion.
You are damned good at woodworking. Have you considered making a pattern
and casting a new one? It would be done right then.....
Curt
Paul Maples wrote:
> Curt I sent a 2nd message that had corrected links on it so take a
> look at it and you will see what I mean.
>
> What is Quick Poly?
>
> Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Curt" <curt at imc-group.com>
> To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 12:45 PM
> Subject: Re: [SEL] Calling all Red-Kote User's - Need Advice
>
>
>> Duh.....that was supposed to be "could NOT".
>> Is this a cast iron tank? Why not clean the inside, slush it with
>> lacquer thinner, and QuikPoly the inside. Problem solved and you are
>> ready to use the tank in an hour.
>> Curt
>>
>> Curt wrote:
>>
>>> Paul,
>>> I could get a single one of these links to come up.....you know of
>>> any problems with it?
>>> Curt
>>>
>>> Paul Maples wrote:
>>>
>>>> Well gang today I started my initial preparation for sealing my
>>>> Stover gas tank using Red-Kote. I have had the bottom of the tank
>>>> brazed up by a local welding shop:
>>>>
>>>> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild311.jpg
>>>>
>>>> However after the welder brazed on it off and on for three weeks he
>>>> quit as he said the more he welded on it the more it cracked. When
>>>> he quit he was still getting some leaks out of the bottom through
>>>> some small cracks that he had not gotten sealed.
>>>>
>>>> I used a variety of tools to break loose most of the rust in the
>>>> bottom of the tank, keep in mind that the bottom had really been
>>>> subjected to a lot of heat over the last three weeks as the brazing
>>>> process went on. Once I got as much rust loose as I could I took
>>>> the tank to a local car wash and washed it out using the pressure
>>>> wand. Brought it back home and used air to blow it out as well as I
>>>> could and then put a 120 watt light bulb in the tank and sealed up
>>>> all of the holes to let the heat further dry out the moisture in
>>>> the tank. The tank is still out in the shop drying now but I took
>>>> these pictures of the bottom of the tank just a few minutes ago:
>>>>
>>>> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild320.jpg
>>>>
>>>> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild318.jpg
>>>>
>>>> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild317.jpg
>>>>
>>>> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild316.jpg
>>>>
>>>> http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild315.jpg
>>>>
>>>> Now my question: Do I need to try to figure out a way to sandblast
>>>> the inside of the tank, it only has about a 4" opening in the top
>>>> to get to the inside, and then apply some JB Weld to these cracks
>>>> before I apply the Red-Kote sealer? I have been told that if the
>>>> Red-Kote ponds anywhere in a tank it will skim over and never cure
>>>> out. I am afraid that as wide as the cracks are the Red-Kote will
>>>> go in the crack and pond up and skim over.
>>>> I will appreciate any advise you Red-Kote users can give me as I
>>>> want this to be successful.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks,
>>>>
>>>> Paul
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>>>> http://www.stationary-engine.com/mailman/listinfo/sel
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>
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