[SEL] Calling all Red-Kote User's - Need Advice

[Dave Rotigel]

Hi Paul,
         Kwik Poly (sometimes called "Quick Poly" by engineers who don't 
look at a second post with the correct location of pictures) is a two part 
gas tank sealer that beats Red-Kote (and all the others) all to hell. It 
cures in 15 minutes and lasts forever when used on an old rusted gas tank.
         Dave
PS, I'm not sure that any of the tank sealers will work well in new tanks 
as a prophylactic. The tank is just too "smooth."

At 02:18 PM 12/14/2006, you wrote:
>Curt I sent a 2nd message that had corrected links on it so take a look at 
>it and you will see what I mean.
>
>What is Quick Poly?
>
>Paul
>
>
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Curt" <curt at imc-group.com>
>To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
>Sent: Thursday, December 14, 2006 12:45 PM
>Subject: Re: [SEL] Calling all Red-Kote User's - Need Advice
>
>
>>Duh.....that was supposed to be "could NOT".
>>Is this a cast iron tank? Why not clean the inside, slush it with lacquer 
>>thinner, and QuikPoly the inside. Problem solved and you are ready to use 
>>the tank in an hour.
>>Curt
>>
>>Curt wrote:
>>
>>>Paul,
>>>I could get a single one of these links to come up.....you know of any 
>>>problems with it?
>>>Curt
>>>
>>>Paul Maples wrote:
>>>
>>>>Well gang today I started my initial preparation for sealing my Stover 
>>>>gas tank using Red-Kote. I have had the bottom of the tank brazed up by 
>>>>a local welding shop:
>>>>
>>>>http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild311.jpg
>>>>
>>>>However after the welder brazed on it off and on for three weeks he 
>>>>quit as he said the more he welded on it the more it cracked. When he 
>>>>quit he was still getting some leaks out of the bottom through some 
>>>>small cracks that he had not gotten sealed.
>>>>
>>>>I used a variety of tools to break loose most of the rust in the bottom 
>>>>of the tank, keep in mind that the bottom had really been subjected to 
>>>>a lot of heat over the last three weeks as the brazing process went on. 
>>>>Once I got as much rust loose as I could I took the tank to a local car 
>>>>wash and washed it out using the pressure wand. Brought it back home 
>>>>and used air to blow it out as well as I could and then put a 120 watt 
>>>>light bulb in the tank and sealed up all of the holes to let the heat 
>>>>further dry out the moisture in the tank. The tank is still out in the 
>>>>shop drying now but I took these pictures of the bottom of the tank 
>>>>just a few minutes ago:
>>>>
>>>>http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild320.jpg
>>>>
>>>>http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild318.jpg
>>>>
>>>>http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild317.jpg
>>>>
>>>>http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild316.jpg
>>>>
>>>>http://i52.photobucket.com/albums/g3...Rebuild315.jpg
>>>>
>>>>Now my question: Do I need to try to figure out a way to sandblast the 
>>>>inside of the tank, it only has about a 4" opening in the top to get to 
>>>>the inside, and then apply some JB Weld to these cracks before I apply 
>>>>the Red-Kote sealer? I have been told that if the Red-Kote ponds 
>>>>anywhere in a tank it will skim over and never cure out. I am afraid 
>>>>that as wide as the cracks are the Red-Kote will go in the crack and 
>>>>pond up and skim over.
>>>>I will appreciate any advise you Red-Kote users can give me as I want 
>>>>this to be successful.
>>>>
>>>>Thanks,
>>>>
>>>>Paul
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>>>>
>>>>
>>>
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>>
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>
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