[SEL] Briggs & Stratton Model ZZ Status

[Richard Fink Sr]

OH WHAT WOULD WE DO WITH OUT WELDING RODS AND NAILS.
R Fink




At 02:03 AM 7/22/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>Hi List,
>After cleaning up the Briggs & Stratton Model ZZ, I was able to  find out why
>it wasn't able to run.
>First of all, the carburetor governor linkage had to be fabricated  since it
>was missing.  This was a challenge as there was no other engine  around to
>copy the assembly.  A linkage assembly was made from a piece  of welding 
>rod and
>a large nail.  The welding rod was bent so that it  operation would not
>interfere with the shroud or carburetor housing.  The  nail became the 
>hinge point
>for the welding rod linkage and was fastened to the  end of governor control
>rod.  The spring assembly that connects to the  other end of the governor
>control arm was also missing.  A new assembly was  made from a tension 
>spring,
>cotter key, and a piece of welding rod.  The  spring assembly keeps the
>carburetor's valve plate in the open position.   Once the engine starts, 
>the governor
>action causes this carburetor valve plate  to close via the carburetor 
>governor
>linkage.
>Next, the shroud and flywheel were removed to gain access to  the magneto
>points.  The points were dressed with a file and a  new condenser was 
>installed.
>The high tension spark plug wire was also  replaced.  The magneto shut off
>wire was gone and had to be replaced.  The gasoline tank was in good 
>shape.  The
>only thing that  had to be done was to modify the fuel shut off valve with a
>"T" handle so it  could be operated without the use of a pair of pliers.  The
>fix was  simple.  A hole (sized for the "T" handle) was drilled in  the 
>end of
>the valve and a piece of round material (welding rod) was  inserted.
>The intake air oil bath filter was covered and caked with  dirt.  This
>assembly was cleaned and a couple of brackets had to be  welded.  New "O 
>ring" seal
>and gaskets were used during the reinstallation  of the oil bath filter.
>The muffler was fabricated from a piece of rectangular tubing and  half of a
>1" pipe coupling.
>This engine had not been operated for several years.   Therefore, when I got
>ready to start it, I decided to use an electric motor to  initially spin it.
>I installed a large diameter Vee belt pulley on the  engine's output shaft.
>First, the engine was spun with the spark plug removed to verify  that the
>magneto was working.  Next, a little starting fluid was into  the spark plug
>hole before the spark plug was  reinstalled.  Spinning the engine again, 
>it fired
>and then  died as I hadn't poured any gasoline into the tank.
>Then, about a quart of gasoline was poured into the gas tank, fuel  shut off
>valve was opened, and the engine was spun again with choke  closed.  The
>engine fired but was running very rough.  Adjusting the  idle valve on the
>carburetor, the engine began to operate a little  better. The engine 
>continued to run
>rough as the RPM of the  engine was increased, .  A little adjustment of the
>high speed control  valve corrected some high RPM rough running condition.
>However,  readjusting both the idle and high speed back and forth 
>corrected the
>rough  engine operating condition in both the idle and high RPM  conditions.
>The engine can now be started with the pull rope.
>
>Francis Maciel
>Santa Maria,  CA
>
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