[SEL] Briggs & Stratton Model ZZ Status
FRM8198 at aol.com
FRM8198 at aol.com
Thu Jul 21 23:03:50 PDT 2005
Hi List,
After cleaning up the Briggs & Stratton Model ZZ, I was able to find out why
it wasn't able to run.
First of all, the carburetor governor linkage had to be fabricated since it
was missing. This was a challenge as there was no other engine around to
copy the assembly. A linkage assembly was made from a piece of welding rod and
a large nail. The welding rod was bent so that it operation would not
interfere with the shroud or carburetor housing. The nail became the hinge point
for the welding rod linkage and was fastened to the end of governor control
rod. The spring assembly that connects to the other end of the governor
control arm was also missing. A new assembly was made from a tension spring,
cotter key, and a piece of welding rod. The spring assembly keeps the
carburetor's valve plate in the open position. Once the engine starts, the governor
action causes this carburetor valve plate to close via the carburetor governor
linkage.
Next, the shroud and flywheel were removed to gain access to the magneto
points. The points were dressed with a file and a new condenser was installed.
The high tension spark plug wire was also replaced. The magneto shut off
wire was gone and had to be replaced. The gasoline tank was in good shape. The
only thing that had to be done was to modify the fuel shut off valve with a
"T" handle so it could be operated without the use of a pair of pliers. The
fix was simple. A hole (sized for the "T" handle) was drilled in the end of
the valve and a piece of round material (welding rod) was inserted.
The intake air oil bath filter was covered and caked with dirt. This
assembly was cleaned and a couple of brackets had to be welded. New "O ring" seal
and gaskets were used during the reinstallation of the oil bath filter.
The muffler was fabricated from a piece of rectangular tubing and half of a
1" pipe coupling.
This engine had not been operated for several years. Therefore, when I got
ready to start it, I decided to use an electric motor to initially spin it.
I installed a large diameter Vee belt pulley on the engine's output shaft.
First, the engine was spun with the spark plug removed to verify that the
magneto was working. Next, a little starting fluid was into the spark plug
hole before the spark plug was reinstalled. Spinning the engine again, it fired
and then died as I hadn't poured any gasoline into the tank.
Then, about a quart of gasoline was poured into the gas tank, fuel shut off
valve was opened, and the engine was spun again with choke closed. The
engine fired but was running very rough. Adjusting the idle valve on the
carburetor, the engine began to operate a little better. The engine continued to run
rough as the RPM of the engine was increased, . A little adjustment of the
high speed control valve corrected some high RPM rough running condition.
However, readjusting both the idle and high speed back and forth corrected the
rough engine operating condition in both the idle and high RPM conditions.
The engine can now be started with the pull rope.
Francis Maciel
Santa Maria, CA
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