[SEL] Briggs & Stratton Model ZZ Status

FRM8198 at aol.com FRM8198 at aol.com
Thu Jul 21 23:03:50 PDT 2005


Hi List,
After cleaning up the Briggs & Stratton Model ZZ, I was able to  find out why 
it wasn't able to run.  
First of all, the carburetor governor linkage had to be fabricated  since it 
was missing.  This was a challenge as there was no other engine  around to 
copy the assembly.  A linkage assembly was made from a piece  of welding rod and 
a large nail.  The welding rod was bent so that it  operation would not 
interfere with the shroud or carburetor housing.  The  nail became the hinge point 
for the welding rod linkage and was fastened to the  end of governor control 
rod.  The spring assembly that connects to the  other end of the governor 
control arm was also missing.  A new assembly was  made from a tension spring, 
cotter key, and a piece of welding rod.  The  spring assembly keeps the 
carburetor's valve plate in the open position.   Once the engine starts, the governor 
action causes this carburetor valve plate  to close via the carburetor governor 
linkage.  
Next, the shroud and flywheel were removed to gain access to  the magneto 
points.  The points were dressed with a file and a  new condenser was installed.  
The high tension spark plug wire was also  replaced.  The magneto shut off 
wire was gone and had to be replaced.  The gasoline tank was in good shape.  The 
only thing that  had to be done was to modify the fuel shut off valve with a 
"T" handle so it  could be operated without the use of a pair of pliers.  The 
fix was  simple.  A hole (sized for the "T" handle) was drilled in  the end of 
the valve and a piece of round material (welding rod) was  inserted.
The intake air oil bath filter was covered and caked with  dirt.  This 
assembly was cleaned and a couple of brackets had to be  welded.  New "O ring" seal 
and gaskets were used during the reinstallation  of the oil bath filter.
The muffler was fabricated from a piece of rectangular tubing and  half of a 
1" pipe coupling.  
This engine had not been operated for several years.   Therefore, when I got 
ready to start it, I decided to use an electric motor to  initially spin it.  
I installed a large diameter Vee belt pulley on the  engine's output shaft.  
First, the engine was spun with the spark plug removed to verify  that the 
magneto was working.  Next, a little starting fluid was into  the spark plug 
hole before the spark plug was  reinstalled.  Spinning the engine again, it fired 
and then  died as I hadn't poured any gasoline into the tank.
Then, about a quart of gasoline was poured into the gas tank, fuel  shut off 
valve was opened, and the engine was spun again with choke  closed.  The 
engine fired but was running very rough.  Adjusting the  idle valve on the 
carburetor, the engine began to operate a little  better. The engine continued to run 
rough as the RPM of the  engine was increased, .  A little adjustment of the 
high speed control  valve corrected some high RPM rough running condition.  
However,  readjusting both the idle and high speed back and forth corrected the 
rough  engine operating condition in both the idle and high RPM  conditions.
The engine can now be started with the pull rope.  

Francis Maciel
Santa Maria,  CA




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