[SEL] Fairbank Morse Z Style D (ShoeBox/SaltBlock) Status Update

[Richard Strobel]

Ah, Ha..here's the little devil:

http://www.old-engine.com/fmzd.htm

RickinMt.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Strobel" <Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 8:07 AM
Subject: Re: [SEL] Fairbank Morse Z Style D (ShoeBox/SaltBlock) Status 
Update


>   Francis;
>  Yes there are timing marks/methods.  I believe it has something to do 
> with the split in the case but let's not take that to the bank yet. 
> Somewhere there is posted a manual for the "Z" but haven't found it yet. 
> I thought it was on Harry's but have failed to find it.  Will try gaggle.
>
> RickinMt.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <FRM8198 at aol.com>
> To: <SEL at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 8:25 PM
> Subject: [SEL] Fairbank Morse Z Style D (ShoeBox/SaltBlock) Status Update
>
>
> > Hi List,
> > Finally, the Fairbanks Morse Z Style D (ShoeBox/SaltBlock) has been
> > completely disassembled.  All the springs (governor, compensating, and 
> > throttle
> > control) except for the valve springs and the speed control spring were 
> > unusable.
> > The governor spring came out in many pieces.  New ones have  been 
> > ordered.
> > Some previous owner had installed the valve adjust shims in the  wrong 
> > order.
> >  The valve stems actually worn through the thin shims.   The thick shim 
> > is
> > the one that should make contact with the valve  stem.
> > The air fuel mixer valve butterfly was frozen and would not  move. 
> > After a
> > little careful application of the "flame wrench",  penetrating oil, and 
> > a
> > soaking in carburetor cleaner, the butterfly valve seems  to operate 
> > correctly.
> > The governor control rod and throttle  activating assembly were also 
> > frozen.
> > Again the heat wrench came to  my aid.  All parts are free.  The bolt 
> > that holds
> > the throttle  activating assembly to the governor control rod snap 
> > during
> > removal.   Luckly, heating the unit with the flame wrench and 
> > application of
> > penetrating  oil, then being able to grab a part of the broken bolt with 
> > vise
> > grips, it was  removed.
> > The bearing surfaces on the camshaft have been polish.  There  are rust 
> > pot
> > holes on some of the surfaces.  However, since this engine  will not be
> > operated in a work environment, these defects will not  matter.
> > Since the timing gear on the crankshaft was damaged, inquiries were 
> > made as
> > the availability of a replacement usable unit.  Fortunately for me,  one 
> > of
> > the members of our local engine club (Central Coast Vintage Machinery
> > Association, Inc.) had a complete crankshaft assembly which he let me 
> > have for  this
> > engine.  The crankshaft bearing surfaces have to be polished and one  of 
> > the
> > main bearing has to be replaced.  A replacement bearing has been 
> > ordered.
> > The governor assembly seems to be in fairly decent condition.   None of 
> > the
> > weights are deteriorated and work freely.  There are two cotter  pins 
> > which are
> > installed as to prevent the governor weight pins from  rotating.  Does 
> > anyone
> > why this was done in this manner?
> > The magneto still has to be checked.  The alloy magneto  gear has little 
> > or
> > no deterioration.
> > No timing marks seem to be visable.  Does this  engine have timing marks 
> > on
> > the timing gears or magneto gear?  If there are  no timing marks, how is 
> > this
> > engine timed?
> >
> > Francis Maciel
> > Santa Maria, CA
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> > SEL at lists.stationary-engine.com
> > http://www.stationary-engine.com/mailman/listinfo/sel
> >
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