[SEL] Silver Soldering Failure

Richard Strobel Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com
Tue Apr 19 17:13:40 PDT 2005


I should get mine filled.  Suppose I have to pay bounty on that bottle also. 
But I know I get metal too hot with the oxy-acet...so prestolite might be 
the answer.

later,
Rick


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "ED" <edstoller at earthlink.net>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: [SEL] Silver Soldering Failure


> I inherited a Prestolite set up also. It works on Acetylene and Air. The
> temperature has to be higher then a propane torch but less than Acetylene
> and oxygen.
>
> Ed Stoller
> New Fairfield, CT
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Richard Strobel" <Richard_Strobel7 at msn.com>
> To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 11:44 AM
> Subject: Re: [SEL] Silver Soldering Failure
>
>
> > Many moons ago when I did refrigeration, I seem to remember we also put 
> > a
> > slight heat on the silver solder stick and dipped it into the flux.  We
> used
> > a torch connected to "Prestolite"..maybe???  Still got a setup.
> >
> > Don't get no better than sweatin' copper.  Loads of fun when one gets
> > proficient.  PITA till then:-)
> >
> > RickinMt.
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "Curt" <curt at imc-group.com>
> > To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 8:34 AM
> > Subject: Re: [SEL] Silver Soldering Failure
> >
> >
> > > Luke,
> > > I hope I am not repeating what has already been mentioned.....but two
> > > additional things come to mind.....
> > > 1) When I silver solder with a oxy/act torch I adjust for a slightly
> > > reducing flame so as not to melt or burn the metal as you mentioned 
> > > was
> > > happening.
> > > 2) The principle with silver soldering is essentially wicking. Yes you
> > > have to get the entire area you are trying to get soldered hot, but 
> > > the
> > > solder will wick or run to the hottest section. You heat the entire
> > > female area to be soldered early on until close to the melting temp of
> the
> > > solder. Pick a side you will feed the solder to. Move your torch to 
> > > the
> > > opposite end. Continue heating and once you cross the threshold into
> > > melting the solder it will suck right toward the hotter end.
> > >
> > > This technique has served me well with regular solder on copper water
> > > pipes, with silver solder on HVAC tubing, and a host of other
> > > applications. You might buy a few copper fittings and some pipe and
> > > watch the wicking action before doing another crankshaft. If you are
> > > trying this with 3/4" fittings, apply your heat around the fitting 
> > > only
> > > (never the pipe), about 3/4" away from the end. Keep heating, as the
> > > heat travels to the end of the fitting it will eventually melt the
> > > silver solder which you are holding in contact with the pipe at the 
> > > edge
> > > of the fitting. Once you just exceed the melting point the silver 
> > > solder
> > > will instantly wick towards the heat source completely filling the
> joint.
> > > Hope this helps,
> > > Curt Holland
> > > Gastonia, NC
> > >
> > > Luke Tonneberger wrote:
> > >
> > > > Hi Everybody,
> > > >
> > > > Well, I tried my hand at silver soldering Saturday and didn't have 
> > > > any
> > > > success. I tried for about 4 hours and just couldn't get it.  I
> > > > practiced on a piece of steel. Got it red hot and touched the silver
> > > > solder to it. It melted and made a nice little blob. After it cooled 
> > > > I
> > > > smacked and whacked on it and it wouldn't bust loose. I thought hey
> > > > that's pretty easy so I tried it on my crankshaft.  Put my flux on 
> > > > and
> > > > heated it with my oxy/acetylene torch with a brazing tip in it.  Got
> > > > it red hot and touched the silver solder to it. It melted for about
> > > > 3/16 of an inch and quit melting. I heated it up again and as it got
> > > > red hot, it started to blow out my other solder. It would just not
> > > > stay hot to apply my solder long enough. As soon as I got it red hot
> > > > and started to apply the solder it would cool off and not melt the
> > > > solder. I tried the cutting tip to get it hotter and that didn't 
> > > > work
> > > > either. Actually started to melt the steel in a couple spots, then
> > > > quick started to apply the solder and same thing, just 1/8 to 3/16 
> > > > and
> > > > it would cool off and not work. Then reheat and it would melt the
> > > > other solder out of the way and have to do it over again. I messed
> > > > around for about 4 hours and didn't get anywhere. I was not a happy
> > > > guy! After almost throwing the whole damn model in the scrap bin 
> > > > from
> > > > being so frustrated, I figured I'm not cut out for model making. 
> > > > After
> > > > sleeping on it for a day I took the welder and welded the 
> > > > crankshaft.
> > > > I did a little at a time so it didn't get too hot. Not sure if it 
> > > > will
> > > > be distorted or not, I didn't really care at that point. I did put 
> > > > it
> > > > in the main bearings after welding and it still turned over and 
> > > > didn't
> > > > bind. So that's my silver soldering failure story.
> > > >
> > > > Luke Tonneberger
> > > > Rockford, Michigan
> > > > USA
>
>
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