[SEL] Silver Soldering Failure

[Richard Strobel]

Many moons ago when I did refrigeration, I seem to remember we also put a 
slight heat on the silver solder stick and dipped it into the flux.  We used 
a torch connected to "Prestolite"..maybe???  Still got a setup.

Don't get no better than sweatin' copper.  Loads of fun when one gets 
proficient.  PITA till then:-)

RickinMt.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Curt" <curt at imc-group.com>
To: "The SEL email discussion list" <sel at lists.stationary-engine.com>
Sent: Tuesday, April 19, 2005 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: [SEL] Silver Soldering Failure


> Luke,
> I hope I am not repeating what has already been mentioned.....but two
> additional things come to mind.....
> 1) When I silver solder with a oxy/act torch I adjust for a slightly
> reducing flame so as not to melt or burn the metal as you mentioned was
> happening.
> 2) The principle with silver soldering is essentially wicking. Yes you
> have to get the entire area you are trying to get soldered hot, but the
> solder will wick or run to the hottest section. You heat the entire
> female area to be soldered early on until close to the melting temp of the
> solder. Pick a side you will feed the solder to. Move your torch to the
> opposite end. Continue heating and once you cross the threshold into
> melting the solder it will suck right toward the hotter end.
>
> This technique has served me well with regular solder on copper water
> pipes, with silver solder on HVAC tubing, and a host of other
> applications. You might buy a few copper fittings and some pipe and
> watch the wicking action before doing another crankshaft. If you are
> trying this with 3/4" fittings, apply your heat around the fitting only
> (never the pipe), about 3/4" away from the end. Keep heating, as the
> heat travels to the end of the fitting it will eventually melt the
> silver solder which you are holding in contact with the pipe at the edge
> of the fitting. Once you just exceed the melting point the silver solder
> will instantly wick towards the heat source completely filling the joint.
> Hope this helps,
> Curt Holland
> Gastonia, NC
>
> Luke Tonneberger wrote:
>
> > Hi Everybody,
> >
> > Well, I tried my hand at silver soldering Saturday and didn't have any
> > success. I tried for about 4 hours and just couldn't get it.  I
> > practiced on a piece of steel. Got it red hot and touched the silver
> > solder to it. It melted and made a nice little blob. After it cooled I
> > smacked and whacked on it and it wouldn't bust loose. I thought hey
> > that's pretty easy so I tried it on my crankshaft.  Put my flux on and
> > heated it with my oxy/acetylene torch with a brazing tip in it.  Got
> > it red hot and touched the silver solder to it. It melted for about
> > 3/16 of an inch and quit melting. I heated it up again and as it got
> > red hot, it started to blow out my other solder. It would just not
> > stay hot to apply my solder long enough. As soon as I got it red hot
> > and started to apply the solder it would cool off and not melt the
> > solder. I tried the cutting tip to get it hotter and that didn't work
> > either. Actually started to melt the steel in a couple spots, then
> > quick started to apply the solder and same thing, just 1/8 to 3/16 and
> > it would cool off and not work. Then reheat and it would melt the
> > other solder out of the way and have to do it over again. I messed
> > around for about 4 hours and didn't get anywhere. I was not a happy
> > guy! After almost throwing the whole damn model in the scrap bin from
> > being so frustrated, I figured I'm not cut out for model making. After
> > sleeping on it for a day I took the welder and welded the crankshaft.
> > I did a little at a time so it didn't get too hot. Not sure if it will
> > be distorted or not, I didn't really care at that point. I did put it
> > in the main bearings after welding and it still turned over and didn't
> > bind. So that's my silver soldering failure story.
> >
> > Luke Tonneberger
> > Rockford, Michigan
> > USA
> >
> >
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> >
> >
>
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