[SEL] re: Saw Outfit Blade finish/now linseed oil

[Rob Skinner]

> What really is "boiled" linseed oil? 

It's had something done to it that makes it dry quicker.  Boiled on metal takes
less than a week to dry, raw will take forever -- well over a week.  The results
are the same.  Don't let anyone talk you into using raw.  The results will be
exactly the same, but you'll grow old waiting for the raw to dry.  

> Reason I ask is that Missy needs to put some on her NewWay 
> and we really don't quite know what to purchase.

Have her put a dab behind each ear.  The smell is delicious.  Either raw or
boiled would be suitable for this application.  The added benefit is that she'd
then be waterproof.  

> You apply a mix of boiled linseed and oil correct? 50/50?

No.  Dampen a rag with straight linseed oil, and wipe it on THINLY.  You want it
to be as thin as if you just wiped it off.  If you put it on heavy, wipe it off.
Don't use a lot.  Apply sparingly.  Put it on thick, and you'll be sorry.  As
thin as possible, ok?  Get the picture? 

Don't dilute it.  You want the linseed oil to dry to an impervious finish.  If
you want an oily finish, use oil.  After the application, go away for the better
part of a week.  

Linseed oil is good on bare or rusty metal, distressed original paint, exhaust
pipes and fire boxes.  Don't use it on shiny paint.  On freshly machined
surfaces, the color of the linseed oil might be visible.  Properly applied,
you'll have the "oily look" that doesn't attract dust or wash off with water.  

What's the condition of Missy's New Way, and what is the desired finished look?

Rob

P.S.
Listen to John about the rags.  I lay 'em out flat beside the garage, so if they
spontaneously combust, they won't create a larger fire.  Or you could roll them
up and smoke 'em as you cruise around in that Hippy Love Bus of yours.